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A  CRUISE 


MEDITERRANEAN 


GLIMPSES  OF  THE  OLD  WORLD 
Through  the  Eyes  of  a  Business  Man  of  the  New. 


By   W.    ML.    HOYT. 


CHICAGO: 

Poole  Bros.,  Printers, 

i8q4. 


PREFACE. 


To  My  Friends,  Greeting: 

At  the  suggestion  and  earnest  request  of  some  of 
my  friends,  I  have  consented  to  the  publication,  in  book 
form,  of  the  letters  that  I  wrote  while  on  our  Oriental 
trip.  Through  the  kindness  of  my  friend,  Eugene  J. 
Hall,  these  letters  were  published  in  the  "  Grocers' 
Criterion  "  during  last  winter  and  spring.  My  motive 
for  writing  these  letters  was  that  my  family  and  inti- 
mate friends  might,  in  a  measure,  enjoy  some  of  the 
pleasures  and  benefits  of  a  trip  of  great  historic  interest. 

To  my  son,  Phelps,  I  am  indebted  for  some  of  the 
results  of  his  camera;  to  my  good  wife,  for  her  encour- 
agement and  approval;  to  Poole  Brothers,  printers, 
for  superior  work  in  illustrations;  to  Eugene  J.  Hall  for 
looking  after  the  details  and  business  features  of  the 
publication. 

As  to  my  time  and  the  expense  of  publication,  my 
reward  will  be  ample,  should  my  friends  accept  this 
token  of  friendship  and  find  in  its  perusal  the  pleasure 
that  I  could  wish  for. 

Yours  truly. 


Christmas,  iSg^. 


No.  I. 


THE  FUERST  BISMARCK. 


Mid-Ocean,  Feb.  6,  1894. 
Eugene  J.  Hall,  Editor: 

Dear  Friend: 


GREEABLY  to   promise  I 


iV 

ll   will    devote   some   of   my 

spare  time  to  keeping  you 

posted  on  my  trip  and 

whereabouts.      Possibly 


ly*  M*  later  on,  when  I  have 
^-,  reached  the  Orient,  my 
letters  may  be  of  more 
interest  to  my  friends  who 
are  absent  but  not  forgotten.  My 
convalescence  has  been  quite  remarkable,  for  ten  days 
prior  to  my  departure  I  was  confined  to  my  bed  with 
lumbago,  but,  thanks  to  Doctor  Pratt,  I  was  able  to 
take  the  train  for  New  York,  where  I  took  the  steamer 
Fuerst  Bismarck,  which  sailed  February  ist. 

We  left  New  York  in  a  snow-storm,  but  had  smooth 
sailing  the  first  day;  the  second  was  a  little  rough;  the 
third  quite  rough  and  still  cold.  On  the  fourth  day, 
and  since,  it  was  mild  and  pleasant  and  overcoats  were 
not  needed.  The  day  when  we  experienced  the 
roughest  weather,  not  one-half  the  passengers  were  at 


8 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE   MEDITERRANEAN. 


the  table.  In  fact,  they  were  dispensing  involuntarily 
of  the  good  things  they  had  eaten  the  day  before. 
While  I  have  never  been  seasick,  it  is  pitiable  to  see 
those  who  are.  At  first  they  fear  they  are  going  to  die 
and  later  they  want  to,  but  fear  they  cannot.  I  will 
never  forget  the  forlorn  look  of  my  wife  as  she  took  to 

THE  FOLLOWING  IS  THE  ITINERARY  OF  THE  EXCURSION: 


FROM 

New  York,  February  1st,  1894. 


To  Gibraltar «. 

Algiers 

Genoa 

Aiaccio  (Corsica) 

Alexandria  (for  Cairo  and  the  Pyramids). 

Jaffa  (for  Jerusalem)  . . 

Smyrna 

Constantinople 

Athens 

Malta 

Messina 

Palermo 

Naples 

Genoa  

From  Genoa 

In  New  York 


Miles. 

Arrival, 

ABOUT. 

3,160 

Feb.   9 

410 

"     11 

524 

"     15 

155 

'•      18 

1,250 

"     22 

263 

Mar.    2 

686 

7 

288 

9 

354 

"      14 

550 

"     17 

155 

"      18 

120 

••      19 

167 

'•      20 

350 

"      26 

Mar.  27 

4,065 

Apr.    6 

12.437 

Stay,  about, 
Hours. 

20 
58 
58 
12 
173 


33 
12 
12 
12 
130 
16 


It  will  be  seen  that  this  excursion  embraces  the  principal  places  of  a  region 
whose  every  inch  of  soil  abounds  with  stirring  reminiscences  of  ancient  lore  and 
history,  regions  rich  with  magnificent  monuments  of  past  grandeur  and  countless 
treasures  of  art. 


her  room  and  rolled  into  her  bunk,  2x6,  remarking: 
"  just  think  of  it,  two  months  on  ship-board  and  such 
a  bed  as  this."  I  have  no  doubt  this  sentiment  was 
felt  if  not  expressed  by  nearly  all  the  passengers, 
as  the  contrast  between  a  large  comfortable  bed  and  a 
cofifin-shaped  berth  is  indeed  very  great.    However,  the 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE   MEDITERRANEAN.  9 

close  fit  is  entirely  practical  and  in  rough  weather  is 
absolutely  necessary,  as  no  matter  how  much  the  ship 
rolls  the  occupant  of  the  berth  is  held  fast. 

It  requires  very  little  to  excite  mirth  on  ship-board, 
and  it  was  very  laughable  when  our  ship  gave  a  lurch 
to  see  the  passengers  on  deck  slide  out  of  their  chairs 
and  across  the  deck  in  regular  toboggan  style.  Soup, 
food,  dishes,  good  clothes  and  fine  feathers — all  found 
a  safe  landing  place  at  the  ship's  rail. 

It  was  announced  yesterday  morning  that  we  had 
increased  our  passenger  list  the  night  before  and  much 
interest  was  manifested  as  to  whom,  how  and  where. 
It  was  soon  learned  that  one  of  our  Italian  emigrants, 
of  whom  we  have  quite  a  number,  had  given  birth  to  a  boy. 
A  purse  of  about  fifty  dollars  was  soon  raised  and  given 
to  the  mother.  Several  of  our  motherly  passengers  set 
about  making  suitable  clothing,  and  with  the  name  I 
gave  him,  "  Second  Bismarck,"  he  may  live  to  appre- 
ciate the  advantages  of  first  seeing  daylight  on  board  a 
ship  on  the  Atlantic.     We  may  say  he's  in  luck. 

To-day  we  passed  two  of  the  islands  of  the  Azores, 
which  of  course  was  quite  an  event;  the  first  island  is 
known  as  Flors.  We  approached  sufficiently  near  to 
get  a  good  view.  The  southern  point  is  very  high  and 
almost  perpendicular.  Farther  back  we  could  see 
green  fields  and  numerous  farm-houses.  At  the  eastern 
side,  where  the  island  slopes  gradually  to  the  water's 


10  A   CRUISE   ON   THE   MEDITERRANEAN. 

edge,  we  saw  quite  a  village,  of  which  a  church  was 
the  most  prominent  feature.  Who  can  fathom  the 
mysteries  of  the  deep?  The  upheaval  in  mid-ocean 
of  this  mass  of  rock  and  soil  is  indeed  strange. 

We  hope  on  our  arrival  at  Gibraltar  to  get  news 
from  home  and  the  world  in  general.  Nine  days 
seem  a  long  time  to  be  in  ignorance  of  the  news 
and  passing  events  of  the  world.  Very  likely  the  tariff 
and  income-tax  bills  have  been  passed  and  become 
laws.  I  hope  so,  as  the  sooner  the  matter  is  settled,  the 
better  it  will  be  for  business  and  the  people  in  general. 
While  I  am  not  disposed  to  discuss  political  questions, 
I  may  be  pardoned  for  referring  to  a  few  matters  that 
concern  us  so  deeply.  Certain  it  is  that  we  have  had 
enough  of  special  legislation  for  the  promotion  of 
prosperity  and  wealth.  When  we  recognize  the  law  of 
supply  and  demand,  practice  economy,  reduce  taxation 
and  dispense  with  reckless  appropriations,  then  we  may 
hope  for  permanent  prosperity.  The  old  way  of  "  slow 
and  sure  "  will  be  found  the  best.  We  have  tried  pro- 
tection and  legislation  for  profit,  and  the  result  has  been 
over-supply,  over-competition,  financial  panic  and  gen- 
eral stagnation  in  our  industries. 

Former  high  scale  of  wages  brought  to  our  shores 
from  the  old  countries  vast  numbers  of  laborers  and 
artisans,  who  came  into  competition  with  our  native 
born,  and  the  result   is  over-supply.     It  is  not  strange 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  II 

that  sufficient  work  cannot  be  obtained  to  keep  em- 
ployed the  great  surplus  that  we  find  upon  our  hands. 
It  could  not  be  otherwise.  The  former  great  strength 
of  labor  unions  had  much  to  do  with  bringing  about 
this  condition,  and  what  was  at  one  time  apparent 
strength  and  power  must,  for  some  time  to  come,  prove 
weakness  and  failure.  Had  they  avoided  extremes  the 
conditions  would  have  been  different.  Let  us  practice 
moderation  in  all  things.  Booms  and  unnatural  in- 
flations are  things  of  the  past.  Our  experience  should 
prove  beneficial  and  lasting.  As  for  the  unemployed 
and  the  suffering  of  the  poor  that  are  with  us,  we  must 
not  be  indifferent  to  their  welfare.  We  must  give 
freely  of  what  we  have  and  do  all  that  lies  in  our  power 
to  furnish  honest  employment.  While  our  country  has 
a  great  and  prosperous  future  we  cannot  expect  our 
people  to  furnish  employment  for  the  surplus  labor  of 
the  world.  We  are  taking  good  medicine,  and  may  we 
hope  for  an  early  convalescence. 


No.  II.  GIBRALTAR. 

On  the  Mediterranean,  Feb.  lo,  1894. 

Previous   to  retiring  on  the  night  before  reaching 

Gibraltar,    we,    the    passengers     on    this    grand    ship, 

resolved  that  we  would  rise  with  the  sun  and  get  our 

first  view  of  the  coasts  of  Spain  and  Africa.     True  to 


12  A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 

our  resolves,  most  of  us  were  on  deck  early,  and  we 
realized  more  than  our  expectations.  Good  weather 
still  continued.  With  a  clear  sky,  bright  sun  and  balmy 
atmosphere,  we  realized  that  we  were  in  another  world. 
The  coast  of  Spain  is  mountainous,  with  valleys  inter- 
spersed here  and  there.  Wherever  soil  existed  vege- 
tation was  conspicuous.  The  small  city  we  first  saw 
was  Trafalgar,  nestled  close  to  the  water's  edge.     Soon 


GIBRALTAR. 


thereafter  we  passed  the  old  Spanish  fort  and  were  in 
view  of  Gibraltar,  which  stands  out  in  bold  relief.  At 
10  o'clock,  promptly  on  time,  we  cast  anchor  and  were 
in  the  harbor  of  Gibraltar,  where  we  found  dories,  or 
big  row-boats,  to  take  us  ashore.  Soon  we  were  on 
British  soil  and  in  the  strongest  fortification  of  the 
world,  the  envy  of  all  nations.  Soldiers — soldiers  every- 
where— Scotch  in  their  kilts,  with  bare  legs,  and  English 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  I3 

and  Irish,  all  of  fine  physique  and  ruddy  complexions. 
The  streets,  though  full  of  life  and  animation,  were  as 
clean  and  tidy  as  our  boulevards  at  home.  The  shops 
were  small,  and  nearly  all  nations  were  represented, 
Moorish  being  quite  conspicuous.  The  buildings  were 
two-story,  nearly  all  of  stone  construction,  small  and 
compact.  The  streets  were  not  wide  and  sidewalks  so 
very  narrow  that  the  entire  business  streets  were  occu- 
pied by  pedestrians.  "  Nearly  every  other  man  you  meet 
is  a  donkey" — donkeys  are  everywhere,  laden  with 
everything,  except  possibly  cannon  of  large  calibre. 
Donkeys  are  a  great  institution  in  this  part  of  the 
world.  They  must  be  endowed  with  true  Christian 
fortitude,  so  meek  and  faithful  that  they  bear  their 
burdens  uncomplainingly.  If  they  get  anything  to  eat, 
it  is  very  little,  and  that  little  such  as  nothing  else  could 
exist  upon.  Gibraltar  rises  on  one  side  almost  perpen- 
dicularly from  the  waves,  to  the  height  of  1,300  feet. 
It  is  three  miles  long  and  about  a  half  mile  wide.  It 
has  been  in  the  possession  of  England  for  many  years, 
and  has  resisted  every  effort  made  to  capture  it  or 
silence  its  tremendous  batteries.  As  to  the  fort,  this 
mass  of  rock,  outwardly  so  harmless  in  appearance,  is 
all  undermined  and  tunneled  with  wonderful  ingenuity 
and  at  enormous  expense.  It  contains  over  2,000 
cannon.  In  time  of  peace  5,000  English  soldiers  are 
stationed  there,  but  there  are  stores  and  water  cisterns 


14  A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN, 

which  would  supply  a  garrison  of  150,000  men  during 
two  years.  Two  fortifications  and  tunneled  galleries 
we  inspected  by  getting  a  permit  from  the  military 
secretary's  office.  We  traveled  a  full  mile  or  more 
through  these  tunnels,  and  while  very  interesting,  it  was 
also  very  fatiguing,  as  they  wind  onward  and  upward. 
The  views  we  got  from  the  numerous  openings  where 
cannon  are  placed  were  very  fine.  These  openings  also 
furnish  light  for  the  various  galleries.  The  extreme 
end  of  the  rock  facing  the  sea  is  called  "  Europa  Point," 
crowned  by  a  lighthouse  and  defended  by  strong  bat- 
teries. The  pride  of  Gibraltar  is  the  Alameda,  a  garden 
laid  out  in  charming  style  and  commanding  fine  views 
of  the  Strait  and  the  coast  of  Africa.  This  is  the 
fashionable  resort,  where  the  spectacle  presented  by 
the  contrast  of  people  at  this  extreme  point  of  Europe 
is  novel  and  curious.  The  garden  abounds  with  ample 
shade  and  a  great  variety  of  flowers,  which,  at  this  sea- 
son of  the  year,  are  in  full  bloom.  From  Gibraltar  we 
drove  over  to  Spain,  passing  what  is  called  the  neutral 
ground,  a  strip  of  land  I  should  judge  to  be  a  half  mile 
wide.  On  either  side  are  the  military — the  red  coats 
on  the  south  and  the  blue  coats  on  the  north.  Here 
comparisons  are  odious.  The  English,  of  fine  form  and 
so  well  uniformed,  show  the  strength  and  position  of 
the  United  Kingdom,  while  the  soldiers  of  Spain  are 
inferior  in  size  and  bearing,  and  their  seedy  uniforms  are 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  I5 

in  keeping  with  the  present  standing  of  their  govern- 
ment. Passing  through  the  Spanish  custom-house, 
where  all  the  Spanish  people  are  searched  very  carefully, 
we  found  our  way  to  the  arena,  where  bull  fights  are  in 
vogue  in  certain  seasons  of  the  year — mostly  carnival 
seasons.  The  amphitheatre  has  a  large  seating  capacity, 
the  seats  being  stone  with  roof  over  them.  The  arena 
is  not  covered,  thus  affording  ample  daylight.  This 
trip  was  hardly  worth  the  time  and  fee  it  cost.  The 
time  spent  in  passing  through  the  streets,  looking  into 
the  shops  and  sizing  up  their  occupants,  was  instructive 
if  not  agreeable.  The  houses  of  one  story  in  height 
may  be  occupied  for  sleeping  purposes,  but,  as  far  as  we 
could  judge,  no  other,  as  women  and  children  were  in 
their  doorways  and  on  the  sidewalks  in  great  numbers. 
Oh!  but  the  smell  of  garlic  or  some  other  vegetable  of 
Spanish  origin  was  intolerable.  Here  "  every  other 
man  you  meet  is  a  measly  dog,"  pedigree  unknown, 
but  in  keeping  with  all  else  we  saw  of  degenerate 
Spain.  To-morrow  we  are  due  at  Algiers,  from  whence 
you  may  again  expect  to  hear  from  me. 


No.  III.  ALGIERS. 

On  the  Mediterranean,  Feb.  14,  1894. 

After  leaving  Gibraltar  on  the  evening  of  the  9th 

inst.,  we  sailed  for  Algiers,  arriving  at  that  picturesque 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  17 

city  early  Sunday  morning,  the  iith.  Fine  weather 
continued  and  our  sail  was  very  enjoyable.  We  ran 
close  to  the  African  coast  and  the  shore  was  visible  a 
good  part  of  the  time.  Early  Sunday  morning,  as  the 
machinery  had  ceased  working,  I  awoke  and  arose  to 
get  my  first  glimpse  of  beautiful  Algiers.  The  lights 
were  still  on  and  I  could  plainly  see  the  streets  and 
almost  the  entire  city,  which  was  strikingly  attractive 
under  electric  light.  Few  towns  on  the  Mediterranean 
can  boast  of  such  a  beautiful  situation.  The  native 
quarter  towers  over  the  modern  town,  rising  tier  above 
tier  to  the  Casbah  (citadel).  This  part,  called  the  old 
town,  has  curious  native  streets,  some  not  more  than 
four  feet  wide  and  fearfully  steep.  'Tis  here  that  the 
Arabs  abide  in  great  swarms.  The  streets  are  clean 
and  abound  in  shops  and  beggars;  the  shops  resemble 
holes  in  the  wall,  as  I  should  call  them,  all  the  way  from 
four  to  twelve  feet  square,  where  is  kept  for  sale  about 
everything  that  is  worn  or  consumed.  While  the  Arabs 
predominate,  there  is  a  motley  population  of  Berbers, 
Turks,  Moors,  Bedouins,  Negroes,  French  and  Maltese. 
Algiers  has  of  late  become  a  great  resort  for  invalids  to 
winter  in,  on  account  of  the  lovely  climate,  which  from 
October  to  March  is  as  warm  as  our  average  summers. 
The  French  quarter  is  in  the  lower  part  of  the  city,  where 
a  broad  macadamized  boulevard  runs  for  miles  along 
the  bay,  bounded  on  one  side  by  fine  private  houses, 


l8  A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 

splendid  hotels,  and  shops  much  like  those  of  Rue 
de  Rivoli  in  Paris.  One  is  reminded  of  Paris  constantly 
while  in  these  quarters,  by  the  attractive  shops  on  the 
Palais  Royale  style.  On  the  boulevard  are  numerous 
caf^s  where  the  fashionable  world  congregates  to  eat, 
drink  and  enjoy  the  beautiful  view  of  the  Mediterra- 
nean. The  three  days  allotted  to  us  here  were  full  of 
interest  and  enjoyment.  Early  Sunday  morning,  before 
breakfast,  bills  were  distributed  on  shipboard,  in  part  as 
follows:  "Real  Spanish  bull  fight."  "Toros  in  Argel." 
"  Arenas  of  Algiers."  "Same  as  given  at  Seville  and 
Madrid  by  the  champion  Matadors  dil  Cartel,  El  Gallo 
Fabrilo."  "  The  celebrated  Matadors  will  fight  five 
splendid  thoroughbred  Spanish  bulls  of  His  Excellency 
the  Duke  of  Veragua,  etc.,  etc.,  Sunday,  February  nth. 
Tickets,  lo  francs  or  $2.00.  Can  be  obtained  of  Cook's 
representative,  who  is  on  board."  Here  was  a  Sunday 
program  gotten  up  largely  for  the  benefit  of  our  pas- 
sengers. What  presumption  to  think  that  our  passen- 
ger list  of  good,  moral,  if  not  all  Christian  people 
would  attend  a  bull  fight  and  especially  on  Sunday. 
The  projectors  were  not  disappointed.  The  tickets 
were  all  sold,  and,  so  far  as  I  could  see,  all  our  passen- 
gers were  present,  unless  the  Bishops,  who  were  of  our 
passengers,  were  constrained  to  deny  themselves  of  the 
opportunity  offered,  for  example's  sake.  In  due  time 
we  were  there  and  every  seat  was  soon  taken,  as  also 


A  CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 


19 


the  available  space  for  standing.  The  audience  was 
represented  by  the  best  class,  and  was  very  enthusias- 
tic. Following  the  opening  by  the  band,  the  procession, 
consisting  of  two  mounted  matadors  and  a  half  dozen 
others  on  foot,  entered  the  arena.  After  marching 
around  the  arena  they  retired  in  the  midst  of  great 
cheering  by  the  immense  crowd  present.  The  mata- 
dors or  fighters  are  men  of  fine  form  and  very  showy  in 
their  fighting  outfits  of  close-fitting  vests,  short  trousers 
of  bright  colors,  orna- 
mented with  gold  and 
silver  trimmings — too 
fancy  for  anything 
except  bull-fighting. 
Thus  arrayed  they 
were  in  readiness  for 

the    bull,    which    was  bull  fight,  Algiers. 

soon  driven  into  the  ring,  where  the  eight  fighters 
with  their  red  blankets  waving,  put  the  bull  in  the 
frantic  humor  desired.  With  head  down  he  would 
make  a  pass  at  one  and  then  another,  always  at  the 
blanket,  which  the  fighter  would  hold  to  one  side  at 
arm's  length.  Passing  one  he  would  rush  at  another, 
and  so  on  until  well  nigh  exhausted.  There  is  no 
especial  danger  of  injury  to  the  matador,  and  in  case  he 
gets  into  close  quarters  he  leaps  over  the  board  railing 
or  fence,  where  he  is  beyond  the  danger  line.     Often 


20  A   CRUISE   ON  THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 

they  had  not  a  moment  to  spare,  as  the  bulls  were 
madly  rushing  upon  them,  and  with  such  force  that 
their  horns  would  strike  and  penetrate  the  boards.  The 
greatest  feature  of  agility  is  in  fastening  the  darts  or 
lances  in  their  hides  and  afterward  withdrawing  them, 
when  the  bulls  are  driven  away  and  "live  to  fight 
another  day."  The  last  bull  to  enter  was  the  fight  to 
the  finish.  Then  for  the  first  time  two  matadors, 
mounted  on  excellent  horses  which  were  blindfolded 
in  one  eye,  dashed  into  the  arena.  The  real  fight  had 
begun — bull,  matadors  and  horses  seemed  only  too 
eager  for  the  fray.  The  large  and  hitherto  enthusiastic 
audience  was  breathless,  as  it  were.  Each  matador  had 
a  long  pole  with  lance,  and  the  feat  to  be  accomplished 
was  to  thrust  it  through  the  hide  of  the  bull  and  leave 
the  pole  perpendicular  therein.  This  was  accomplished 
by  one  and  was  a  failure  with  the  other.  The  next 
daring  feat  was  to  withdraw  it,  which  was  successfully 
accomplished.  But  for  the  horns  of  the  bull  being 
covered  and  made  blunt,  the  poor  horses  would  have 
lost  their  lives,  as  several  times  they  got  badly  punched 
but  not  disabled.  The  finishing  feat  is  when  the  mata- 
dor with  sword  in  hand  is  to  take  the  bull's  life.  This 
was  done  after  three  attempts,  when  the  poor  bull,  who 
was  handicapped  throughout,  must  die  to  meet  the 
cruel  and  vicious  sentiment  of  a  large  part  of  the 
audience.       The   closing   scene   is   when    four    horses 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  21 

caparisoned  in  gay  colors  are  driven  into  the  arena  and 
draw  the  dead  animal  from  view. 

I  can  understand  why  people  may  visit  bull  fights 
from  curiosity,  but  it  is  lamentable  that  in  any  civilized 
country  they  should  be  patronized  for  amusement  or 
pleasure.  In  no  country  are  they  now  in  vogue  as  in 
the  past,  and  the  cruelty  has  been  greatly  diminished. 

The  drives  about  Algiers  are  very  interesting  and 
the  roads  everywhere  as  perfect  as  could  be  imagined. 
We  enjoyed  an  excursion  to  Blidah,  two  hours  by  rail, 
and  from  there  to  the  gorge  of  the  Chiffa  in  the  Atlas 
mountains,  where  snow  on  the  mountains  high  above 
us  was  plainly  visible.  This  excursion,  some  thirty 
miles  into  the  country,  gave  us  a  good  idea  of  the  great 
fertility  of  the  soil  and  luxuriance  of  its  vegetation. 
Every  inch  of  ground  is  cultivated,  and  olive,  fig  and 
orange  groves  abound.  The  orange  groves  are  not 
large  but  seem  quite  thrifty.  The  fruit  is  fine  but  not 
equal  to  that  of  Florida  in  size  and  quality.  The  grape 
culture  for  the  production  of  wine  is  on  a  very  large 
scale  in  these  parts.  Large  fields  of  grain,  now  a  few 
inches  in  height,  promise  a  good  yield.  Wild  flowers 
were  in  great  abundance,  and  cacti  from  six  to  ten  feet 
high,  also  the  century  plant,  are  planted  to  take  the 
place  of  fences,  which  serve  the  purpose  well  and 
look  very  sightly.  In  Blidah  are  stationed  a  large 
number   of  Arabian   soldiers   under   the  command  of 


22  A   CRUISE   ON  THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 

French  officers.  Just  outside  of  the  walled  town  is  the 
large  campus,  where  we  saw  a  regiment  of  cavalry 
drilling.  The  Arab  soldiers  were  of  good  size  and 
looked  well  in  their  native  flowing  garments,  while  their 
pure  Arabian  horses  were  the  finest  I  ever  saw — so  sleek, 
and  in  every  form  and  feature  showed  the  thorough- 
bred of  the  finest  type.  I  shall  never  expect  to  see 
their  like  again.  The  Arabs  are  the  toilers,  and  are  to 
be  seen  everywhere.  In  the  city  they  swarm  in  the 
streets,  and  in  the  country  they  do  the  farm  work. 
While  the  donkeys  are  numerous  here,  the  Arabs 
probably  outnumber  them.  They  seem  to  be  com- 
panions and  companionable.  On  our  way  into  the 
gorge  of  the  mountains  we  saw  hundreds  if  not  thou- 
sands of  them.  Great  numbers  inhabit  the  mountains, 
where  they  make  charcoal  and  pack  it  into  Algiers, 
where  they  find  a  market.  The  Arabs  are  well  spoken 
of  as  being  honest,  industrious,  thrifty  and  law-abiding. 
They  have  good  schools  and  the  better  classes  are  well 
educated  and  occupy  responsible  positions.  They  are 
Mohammedans  in  faith,  and  their  religion  is  their  great 
comfort  and  hope.  The  poorer  classes  earn  from  20  to 
40  cents  per  day,  by  hard  labor,  of  which  they  save  a 
part.  They  live  principally  on  bread,  which  they  eat 
soaked  in  olive  oil,  and  the  average  cost  of  such  living 
is  said  not  to  exceed  5  cents  per  day.  We  were  much 
impressed   by   the   strange   appearance   of   the  veiled 


A  CRUISE   ON   THE   MEDITERRANEAN.  23 

women,  met  here  for  the  first  time  in  our  journey.  The 
veil  is  supposed  to  shield  the  woman  from  the  vulgar 
gaze  of  any  man  other  than  her  lord  and  master.  To 
our  western  and  christianized  minds  it  seemed  a  great 
injustice,  and  a  wonder  that  a  costume  dictated  by  the 
jealousy  of  Mohammed  could  have  prevailed  undis- 
puted and  unchanged  through  all  these  years.  We  did 
Algiers  quite  thoroughly 
and  would  gladly  have 
remained  longer,  but  as  we 
anticipated  much  pleasure 
in  the  places  to  follow, 
we  left  with  only  pleasant 
recollections. 

The  run  from  Algiers  to 
Genoa  is  some  forty  hours, 
where  we  are  due  early  to- 
morrow morning.  A  strong 
wind  and  big  waves  have 
kept  most  of  the  passen- 
gers in  their  rooms  during  women  of  Algiers. 
the  day,  and  this  part  of  the  trip  has  been  disap- 
pointing. However,  we  have  in  the  main  had  perfect 
weather  and  a  royal  good  time.  We've  all  been  well 
and  without  mishaps.  From  Genoa  you  may  hear 
from  me  again. 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  25 

No.  IV. 

CORSICA  AND  GENOA. 

AjACCio,  Island  of  Corsica,  Feb.  18,  1894. 
Here  we  are  at  the  birthplace  of  the  great  Napoleon. 
We  found  the  house  in  very  good  repair,  but  the 
street  narrow  and  dirty.  The  house  may  have  been 
quite  palatial  in  its  day,  but  looks  far  from  modern. 
However,  it  was  very  interesting  to  see  the  old  bed- 
stead upon  which  he  was  born  and  the  furniture  in 
general  that  was  in  use  in  his  childhood  days.  Some 
of  the  cabinets  were,  no  doubt,  very  elegant  in  their 
time.  His  old  sedan  chair  and  the  other  chairs  also 
show  their  great  age  and  are  kept  closely  guarded  for 
antiquity's  sake.  The  house  bears  the  inscription, 
"  Napoleon  est  ne  dans  cette  Maison  le  15  Aout,  1769." 
The  statue,  in  bronze,  of  the  Emperor  with  his  four 
brothers  was  erected  in  1865  by  Barye,  and  is  very  fine. 
This  is  a  place  of  about  20,000  inhabitants  and  the 
capital  of  the  island  of  Corsica.  It  is  most  beautifully 
situated  on  an  extensive  bay,  whose  background  is 
formed  by  imposing  mountains,  where  again  we  were 
in  sight  of  the  beautiful  snow  on  Monte  Cinto,  some 
9,000  feet  above  the  sea.  The  valleys  and  hillsides  are 
beautiful  and  show  careful  cultivation.  The  air  is  mild 
and  balmy,  and  we  now  begin  to  appreciate  the  fact 
that  we  are  approaching  the  tropical  country  of  Egypt, 
where  we  are  due  the  22d  inst. 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  27 

We  arrived  in  Genoa  on  the  15th  inst.,and  we  found 
it  cold  and  disagreeable.  This  is  the  great  commer- 
cial city  of  Italy,  and  the  harbor  was  well  filled  with 
ships  of  other  nations.  Soon  after  we  arrived  the 
Fulda  left  for  New  York  with  a  shipload  of  Italians. 
I  would  like  to  have  told  them  that  they  had  better 
remain  in  their  native  land,  where  they  could  at  least 
find  employment  at  a  price  that  would  afford  them  a 
living,  which  is  doubtful  at  this  time  in  the  United 
States. 

When  the  situation  is  better  understood  by  foreigners 
who  are  seeking  higher  wages,  they  will  remain  where 
they  are,  for  a  while  at  least.  During  our  boom,  and 
up  to  the  time  that  we  had  not  an  over-supply,  nearly 
all  who  came  to  our  shores  were  benefited. 

The  buildings  here  are  high,  massive  and  imposing. 
We  saw  a  magnificent  statue  of  Columbus,  but  the 
profile  was  unlike  any  others  we  have  seen,  and  the 
question  may  be  asked  which,  if  any,  is  correct.  We  saw 
the  noted  Villa  Pallavicini,  with  its  beautiful  grounds, 
which  cost  upwards  of  Si, 000,000.  The  present  owner 
is  sixty-five  years  of  age,  blind,  and  has  a  bad  son  (so 
reported  our  guide).  Therefore  he  is  monarch  of  more 
than  his  eyes  can  survey.  His  poor  tenants  are  far 
better  off  than  he,  and  have  more  to  be  thankful  for.  A 
visit  to  the  cemetery,  Campo  Santo,  where  we  saw  great 
numbers  of  the  finest  statues  by  the  greatest  artists,  was 


A  CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 


29 


very  interesting.  The  Cathedral  of  San  Lorenzo  dates 
from  the  eleventh  century,  and  contains  many  precious 
relics.  The  massive  columns  of  solid  marble,  of 
several  varieties,  were  wonderfully  beautiful.  The 
decorations  are  extensive  and  in  perfect  condition. 
They  were,  however,  touched  up  some  forty  years  ago. 


From  Genoa  we  made  a  side  trip  by  rail  to  Monte 
Carlo — where  we  took  carriages  to  Nice,  which  is 
indeed  a  nice  place  to  visit,  and  we  would  like  to  have 
remained  much  longer  than  our  time  would  grant. 
The  drive  was  charming  beyond  description.  For 
nearly  two  hours  we  were  in  sight  of  Monte  Carlo, 
while  we  were  going  zigzag  to  the  mountain  top. 
Nearly  all  the  time  we  were  in  sight  of  the  beautiful 


30 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 


Mediterranean,  whose  blue  waters  glistened  in  the  sun- 
shine. We  passed  through  beautiful  Mentone,  but 
Monte  Carlo  and  Monaco  are  the  great  fashionable 
resorts.  We  secured  tickets  to  the  Casino  in  Monte 
Carlo,  where  gambling  is  conducted  on  a  great  and 
magnificent  scale.     Though  we  did  not  take  a  chance, 


GAMBLING   AT    MONTE   CARLO. 


we  spent  some  time  there,  and  it  was  very  interesting 
to  study  the  faces  and  watch  the  games.  Young  men 
spending  inherited  fortunes,  old  men  on  the  verge  of 
the  grave,  were  "in  it,"  killing  time,  while  about  an 
equal  number  of  women  were  also  trifling  with  Dame 
Fortune;  some  young  and  beautiful,  others  old  and  hag- 
gard. The  majority  of  the  players  were  cool  and  com- 
posed,  and    seemed    not   to    change    in    countenance 


A    CRUISE   ON    THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  3I 

whether  they  lost  or  won.  While  not  knowing  their 
personality,  it  is  safe  to  predict  that  the  end  means 
ruin  for  most,  if  not  all,  of  them.  Suicides  and  crime 
result  largely  from  a  season  spent  in  this  infatuating 
hell.  Still,  the  place  is  crowded  with  fashionable 
people  from  all  parts  of  the  world,  some  of  whom  are 
from  Chicago  and  are  spending  the  winter  there.  One 
whom  I  met  stated:  "This  is  the  place  of  all  places 
to  have  a  good  time  in."  My  opinion  is  that  later  he  may 
change  his  mind  and  say:  "  This  is  the  place  to  avoid 
unless  for  a  day  and  to  gratify  curiosity."  The  limited 
time  I  have  here  in  which  to  mail  this  letter  will  pre- 
clude further  details. 


No.  V. 

ALEXANDRIA,  EGYPT. 

February  25,  1894. 
Except  for  my  promise  to  let  you  hear  from  me,  I 
would  discontinue  this  correspondence  for  the  present, 
as  time  is  an  essential  feature  in  this  attractive  place. 
However,  a  little  rest  is  desirable  after  the  past  few 
days  of  sightseeing.  We  arrived  in  Alexandria  the 
23rd,  bright  and  early.  The  first  view  I  obtained 
from  my  port-hole  was  the  old  lighthouse  known  as 
Pharos,  located  on  a  point  of  land  adjacent  to  the 
harbor  and  almost  as  conspicuous  as  Pompey's  Pillar, 
which  I  saw  later  from  another  point.      The  view  as  we 


32  A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 

lay  in  the  harbor  of  the  Mediterranean,  extending  as 
far  as  the  eye  could  see,  was  most  impressive.  The 
land  was  apparently  on  a  level  with  the  sea,  and  nothing 
in  view  but  sand  and  the  tall  palmetto  trees,  of  which 
a  goodly  number  were  observable.  The  similarity  to 
the  lower  coast  of  Florida,  as  seen  from  the  Mexican 
Gulf  coast,  was  almost  identical. 

Our  landing  was  accomplished  with  but  little  delay 
and,  as  usual,  in  small  boats,  of  which  there  were  great 
numbers.  It  was  amusing  to  watch  the  boatmen  as 
they  crowded  their  boats  alongside  our  ship,  each  en- 
deavoring to  crowd  the  other  out,  in  order  to  secure 
passengers.  Such  yelling,  pushing  and  hauling  made 
it  a  perfect  bedlam.  While  apparently  very  angry, 
fortunately  there  were  no  blows  exchanged.  There 
was  no  delay,  to  speak  of,  at  the  custom  house,  and  we 
were  soon  off  for  a  drive.  The  first  object  of  interest 
was  Pompey's  Pillar,  a  red  granite  cylindrical  shaft  over 
one  hundred  feet  in  height  and  of  one  solid  stone. 
The  mystery  is,  how  could  it  have  been  brought  there 
and  so  perfectly  raised  at  a  time  when  our  present 
facilities  for  such  a  gigantic  task  were  unknown.  It 
shows  the  effect  of  age,  and  disintegration  is  percep- 
tible in  many  places.  The  monument  which  vied  with 
it  in  general  interest  was  Cleopatra's  Needle  which,  up 
to  1880,  stood  at  Ramleh,  about  six  miles  from  Alex- 
andria.    It  was  presented  by  the  Khedive  Ismail  to  the 


A   CRUISE   ON  THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  33 

city  of  New  York,  and  it  was  raised  by  American 
machinery  from  the  place  it  occupied  for  2,000  years 
and  conveyed  to  New  York  in  a  specially  constructed 
vessel.  The  catacombs  were  very  interesting — almost 
a  solid  mass  of  graves,  and  all  alike.  They  are  about 
four  feet  high,  built  of  stone,  oval  at  the  top  and 
covered  with  cement.  From  each  mound  a  shaft  is 
built,  which  gives  the  grave  the  appearance  of  a  steam 
boiler. 

Our  drive  extended  along  the  canal,  where  we  ob- 
served the  most  peculiar  boats  imaginable,  the  dahabieh 
of  the  Nile,  not  less  curious  than  the  caravels  at  our 
World's  Fair.  The  canvas  these  boats  carry  is  double 
the  size  of  the  boats  themselves  and  constructed  on  the 
goose-quill  order.  The  masts  are  very  high  and  the 
sail  is  fastened  on  a  boom  which  crosses  the  mast  about 
two-thirds  from  the  top,  making  an  angle  of  about 
30°  with  it.  The  boats  are  nearly  all  of  similar  con- 
struction. The  Palace  Ras-el-Tin  and  gardens  were 
not  of  much  interest  to  us.  The  grounds  and  trees 
were  covered  with  green  mold,  and  the  few  flowers  we 
saw  struggling  for  life  gave  the  place  the  appearance 
of  one  that  should  be  avoided  rather  than  visited. 
The  palace,  though  large,  showed  neglect  and  decay. 

Alexandria,  in  its  palmy  days,  is  said  to  have  had  a 
population  of  over  half  a  million,  but  at  present  con- 
tains not  over  200,000  inhabitants.     Since  the  opening 


A  CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  35 

of  the  Suez  Canal,  Alexandria  has  become  an  emporium 
of  considerable  commerce,  but  its  oriental  character 
is  still  maintained.  It  is  since  the  bombardment 
of  1882  that  a  modern  city  has  arisen,  and  in  the 
Frank  quarter  the  finest  modern  buildings  are  quite 
numerous.  Perfect  streets  and  broad  boulevards  are 
in  keeping  with  this  part  of  the  city.  The  few  hours 
spent  in  Alexandria  was  all  the  time  we  wanted  there, 
and  we  took  the  first  train  to  Cairo,  distant  138  miles; 
time,  by  fast  express,  about  four  hours.  The  railroad 
is  built  through  the  valley  and  in  several  places  along 
the  banks  of  the  Nile;  the  soil  is  very  fertile  and  the 
greater  part  is  given  up  to  alfalfa,  which  gives  the  fields 
the  fresh  appearance  of  our  meadows  in  June.  Large 
herds  of  cattle  were  to  be  seen  in  all  directions.  The 
cattle  here  are  very  unlike  ours.  They  strongly  resem- 
ble the  sacred  cow,  with  necks  and  heads  almost 
on  a  line  with  their  backs.  Their  horns  are  almost 
straight  and  grow  back  on  the  body,  and  they  have 
slight  humps  on  their  shoulders.  Sheep,  donkeys  and 
camels,  with  their  attendants,  were  also  observable  in 
great  numbers.  Mud  villages  were  to  be  seen  here  and 
there,  and  some  of  them  covered  a  large  area  of  ground. 
They  were  compactly  built  and  from  outward  appear- 
ance were  densely  populated.  These  villages  are  built 
on  land  that  was  purposely  elevated  to  overcome  the 
danger  of  inundation  by  the  annual  rise  of  the  Nile, 


36 


A  CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 


which  at  times  is  rather  serious  in  its  results.  Irriga- 
tion is  resorted  to  almost  as  extensively  as  in  Califor- 
nia, but  at  a  small  expense,  as  the  land  is  very  nearly 
level  throughout  the  valley.  A  main  ditch  extends  at 
right  angles  from  the  Nile,  from  which  the  water  is 
elevated  to  some  extent  by  windmills  (few  in  number), 
but  principally  by  pumps,  worked  by  cattle  attached  to 


EGYPTIAN  IRRIGATION. 


an  oddly-constructed  windlass.  Wells  are  also  sunk 
(only  a  depth  of  a  few  feet  is  required  to  get  to  the  level 
of  the  Nile),  from  which  water  is  elevated  by  the  cheap 
labor  of  the  natives.  Were  labor  not  so  cheap  and 
laborers  not   so   numerous,  windmills  would   be  more 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE   MEDITERRANEAN,  "37 

extensively  used,  as  wind  in  this  part  of  the  world  is  in 
large  supply  as  well  as  in  demand  for  purposes  of  navi- 
gation on  the  Nile.  It  is,  however,  very  objectionable 
for  the  comfort  of  tourists  from  other  parts  of  the 
world.  The  chill  of  the  wind  is  not  less  than  that  of 
some  parts  of  California  and  on  Lake  Michigan  in 
March.  But  for  the  bright  sunshine  which  is  ever  pre- 
vailing, this  country  would  have  no  attractions  for  tour- 
ists who  are  seeking  a  genial  climate.  At  its  best  it  is 
not  to  be  compared  with  the  winter  climate  of  Florida, 
which  has  that  soft,  balmy  atmosphere  that  is  only 
equaled  by  a  few  of  our  best  days  at  home  in  the 
month  of  June.  I  am  still  wearing  heavy  clothing 
the  same  as  at  home  in  winter,  and  it  is  more  often 
that  I  am  too  cold  than  too  warm.  In  the  sun  and  out 
of  the  wind  it  is  comfortably  warm,  while  in  the  shade 
and  in  the  wind  no  amount  of  clothing  could  keep  one 
too  warm.  In  this  respect  the  hotels  are  very  uncom- 
fortable at  night  and  in  the  early  morning,  as  no  means 
for  heating  has  been  provided.  I  have  suffered  more 
from  cold  in  Egypt  than  in  Chicago.  Hard  colds  are 
quite  common  with  our  party,  notwithstanding  the  care 
and  prudence  we  exercise  to  avoid  them. 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERKANKAN.  39 

No.  VI. 

CAIRO  AND  THE  PYRAMIDS. 

Cairo,  Egypt,  March  i,  1894. 
Here  we  are  in  the  capital  of  Egypt  and  the  seat  of 
government,  with  a  population  of  400,000,  of  whom 
about  30,000  are  Europeans.  Cairo  is  the  ideal  Mo- 
hammedan capital,  as  it  has  been  for  years.  It  is  the 
residence  of  the  khedive  and  is  the  largest  city  in 
Africa.  Its  remarkable  edifices  are  its  citadel,  mosques 
and  their  minarets.  The  citadel  dominates  over  the 
whole  city  from  its  elevated  position  on  a  bold  ridge  of 
sandstone.  Its  walls  are  of  great  solidity  and  in  some 
places  one  hundred  feet  in  height.  The  view  it  com- 
mands is  very  extensive  and  impressive,  including  not 
only  the  carved  domes  and  fantastic  minarets  of  Cairo, 
but  the  sequestered  valley,  with  its  tombs  of  Mameluke 
sultans  and  the  rich,  deep  verdure  of  the  distant  delta. 
The  neighboring  pyramids  and  the  yellow  frontier  belt 
of  the  desert  stand  out  in  bold  relief.  The  Cairene  min- 
arets are  said  to  be  the  most  graceful  of  any  in  the 
east;  exquisite  creations  of  the  strange,  dreamy  Arabian 
genius,  towering  to  an  extraordinary  height,  built  of 
courses  of  red  and  white  stone  and  ornamented  with 
balconies,  from  which  muezzins  announce  the  hour  of 
prayer.  Of  these  mosques  the  first  that  we  visited 
was  that  of  Sultan  Hassan.     The  king  had  the  hand  of 


40  A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 

the  architect  cut  off,  in  order  that  he  might  never  be 
able  to  construct  another  like  it.  Its  porch  is  beautiful 
and  its  extensive  court  strikes  one  with  admiration. 
In  the  back  part  is  the  tomb  of  the  founder,  on  which 
rests  a  copy  of  the  Koran.  We  next  visited  that  of 
Mohammed  Ali,  recently  finished,  and  said  to  be  fully 
equal  to  anything  of  the  kind  in  Constantinople.  It  is 
certainly  magnificent  beyond  description.  Nearly  the 
whole  of  the  interior  is  of  oriental  alabaster.  The  ceil- 
ing is  divided  into  one  large  dome  in  the  center,  sur- 
rounded by  four  half  domes  of  the  same  size,  at  the 
corners  of  which  are  four  smaller  domes.  On  the  side 
toward  Mecca  is  another  half  dome  the  size  of  the  first. 
The  tomb  of  Mohammed  Ali  is  in  one  corner  and  is 
strikingly  beautiful.  The  entire  floor  of  the  mosque  is 
covered  with  Smyrna  rugs  of  the  most  beautiful  designs 
and  some  of  very  large  size,  and  the  entire  lot  was  pre- 
sented by  a  Russian  prince.  The  decorations  and 
stained-glass  windows  are  very  fine.  The  mosque  is 
one  of  the  largest  and  covers  an  area  540  feet  square. 
Many  are  constantly  worshiping  there  and  all  facing 
the  east,  some  blind,  others  very  aged  and  all  seemingly 
of  the  poorer  classes.  They  were  sitting  on  the  floor 
and  kept  their  heads  and  bodies  constantly  bending 
and  bowing. 

Our    next    to    visit   was  that  of  Tulun,  the  oldest 
mosque  in  the  city,  built  A.  d.  879.     What  was  once 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  4I 

elaborately  carved  wood-work  has  nearly  all  gone  to 
decay.  Its  thousand  years  and  over  of  age  are  strik- 
ingly manifest.  On  entering  these  mosques  we  put  on 
slippers  over  our  shoes,  in  preference  to  entering  them 
with  bare  feet  as  the  Egyptians  are  required  to  do. 
The  attendant  probably  did  not  understand  my  remark 
when  I  stated  that  Egyptian  slippers  were  not  large 
enough  for  Chicago  feet.  However,  the  slippers  were 
equal  to  the  requirements  of  the  custom,  and  the  fee 
exacted. 

Driving  through  old  Cairo  with  its  narrow  streets  we 
were  soon  on  the  island  of  Rhoda,  where  we  saw  the  old 
residence  of  the  Pharaohs  in  a  fair  state  of  preservation. 
It  is  located  on  the  most  southerly  point  of  the  island, 
from  which  there  is  a  most  charming  view.  But  a  few 
rods  from  this  we  were  shown  where  Moses  was  found, 
but  in  lieu  of  bulrushes  there  is  now  a  stone  wall  some 
fifteen  feet  high  extending  up  from  the  water's  edge  of 
the  Nile. 

We  visited  the  university,  a  Mohammedan  school  in 
one  of  the  old  mosques,  where  we  saw  hundreds  of  boys 
learning  and  reciting  the  Koran.  They  were  divided 
into  small  groups,  having  as  instructors  ancient-looking 
Arabs.  They  seemed  very  jolly  and  to  be  having  a 
good  time  as  they  sat  on  the  stone  floor,  with  bodies 
and  heads  in  constant  motion.  In  lieu  of  slates  their 
lessons  were  written  on  tin  sheets — about  8  x  lo  inches 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  43 

in  size.     In  the  large  open  court  were  young  and  old 
men,  some  reciting  the  Koran,  others  fast  asleep. 

Our  next  day  was  spent  in  visiting  the  pyramids  — 
a  charming  drive  of  about  two  hours  through  a  broad 
avenue  perfectly  shaded  by  immense  pepper  trees 
nearly  the  whole  distance.  Cheops,  the  largest  of  the 
three  pyramids  of  Gizeh,  is  451  feet  high,  rising  from  a 
base  which  measures  764  feet  each  way  and  covering 
eleven  acres  of  ground.  It  is  estimated  that  Cheops 
employed  100,000  men  for  ten  years  to  make  the  cause- 
way from  the  Nile,  for  the  purpose  of  conveying  the 
huge  blocks  of  stone,  and  360,000  men  twenty  years  to 
build  the  monument.  The  view  of  this  pyramid  from  a 
distance  is  grand,  but  its  actual  height  and  immensity, 
when  alongside  of  it,  are  awe-inspiring.  It  is  indeed  one 
of  the  Seven  Wonders  of  the  World.  These  huge 
blocks  of  stone  are  laid  in  perfect  symmetry  and  are  in 
a  good  state  of  preservation.  The  ascent  is  arduous 
and  but  few  visitors  succeed  in  reaching  the  top;  one- 
third  of  the  way  was  enough  for  us.  The  view,  however, 
from  this  distance  is  very  fine.  The  two  other  pyramids 
of  Gizeh  are  in  close  proximity  to  this  but  not  so  large. 
A  short  distance  from  this  pyramid  is  the  Sphinx,  as 
much  greater  than  all  other  Sphinxes  as  the  pyramids 
are  greater  than  all  other  tombs.  It  is  now  so  covered 
with  sand  that  only  the  upper  parts — the  head  and 
body — are  visible.     The  whole  figure  is  cut  out  of  the 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  45 

solid  rock,  with  the  exception  of  the  fore  paws,  and 
worked  smooth.  The  Sphinx  was  a  local  deity  of  the 
Egyptians  and  was  treated  in  all  former  times  with 
divine  honors.  Immediately  under  its  breast  an  altar 
stood,  and  the  smoke  of  the  sacrifice  went  up  into  the 
gigantic  nostrils,  now  vanished  from  its  face.  The  size 
of  the  Sphinx  is  estimated  in  height  143  feet;  circum- 
ference around  the  forehead  102  feet.  The  paws  of  the 
leonine  part  extended  50  feet  in  front.  An  inscription 
cut  on  one  of  the  paws  has  been  translated  to  read  as 
follows: 

Thy  form  stupendous  here  the  gods  have  placed, 
Sparing  each  spot  of  harvest-bearing  land; 

And  with  this  wondrous  work  of  art  have  graced 
The  rocky  isle  encumbered  once  with  sand; 

And  near  thy  pyramids  have  bid  thee  stand — 

Not  that  fierce  Sphinx  that  Thebes  erewhile  laid  waste, 

But  great  Latona's  servant,  mild  and  bland; 

Watching  that  prince  beloved,  who  fills  the  throne 
Of  Egypt's  plains,  and  calls  the  Nile  his  own. 
That  heavenly  monarch  (who  his  foes  defies), 
Like  Vulcan  powerful,  and  like  Pallas  wise. 

Though  mutilated  and  defaced  the  lonely  Sphinx 
still  possesses  a  strange  and  weird  beauty.  'Tis  here 
that  I  took  my  first  ride  on  a  camel,  as  did  also  my 
wife.  We  started  out  thinking  to  make  the  trip  on  foot 
(the  distance  being  short),  but  the  deep  sand  and 
stony  path  made  walking  a  hardship;  so  courage  came 
of  sheer  desperation  and  we  were  only  too  glad  to  ride 
even  a  camel.     As  the  country  girl  said  when  she  first 


46  A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 

saw  a  camel:  "Aren't  they  awful  plain  looking."  '  I 
will  add — yes,  they  are,  and  they  are  equally  safe  and 
reliable,  and  their  walking  gait  is  not  objectionable  to 
even  amateur  riders. 

The  next  day  we  went  up  the  Nile  and  visited  the 
ancient  city  of  Memphis,  in  which  place  we  saw  the 
pyramids  of  Sakkara,  statue  of  Rameses  II.,  the 
tombs  of  the  sacred  bulls,  etc.  The  excursion  occupied 
a  whole  day,  and  I  pronounce  it  the  most  instructive 
and  enjoyable  up  to  date.  From  Cairo  we  took  a 
"Cook"  steamer  up  the  Nile,  which  brought  us  to  the 
place  of  landing  in  two  hours.  Here  we  found  donkeys 
in  readiness  for  the  balance  of  the  trip,  which  con- 
sumed about  five  hours  and  covered  a  distance  of 
twelve  to  twenty  miles,  estimated  according  to  the 
endurance  of  the  riders.  There  were  several  ladies  in 
the  party,  and  I  may  say  they  endured  the  trip 
"  donkeyly  "  well.  My  donkey  boy  was  a  shrewd  one; 
the  few  words  of  English  that  he  spoke,  and  fairly  well 
at  that,  were:  "This  good  donkey;  you  good  rider — 
donkey  boy  wants  two  shillings."  Yes,  and  he  wanted 
his  two  shillings  at  short  intervals.  His  ambition  to 
please  me  and  have  my  good  will  for  a  good  fee  were 
manifest  in  the  way  he  prodded  the  poor  little  donkey 
to  make  him  forge  ahead  of  others;  this  led  to  a  mishap 
by  which  the  donkey  stumbled  and  fell  and  I  was 
thrown  over  his  head.     The  fall  was  easy  and  some- 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 


47 


what  broken  by  his  big  upright  ears,  with  which  I  came 
in  contact  on  my  sliding  off  over  his  head.  We  were 
soon  up  and  away  again,  but  I  would  no  longer  allow 
him  to  put  on  airs  at  my  expense.  The  balance  of  the 
trip  was  slow  and  sure.  Not  less  than  half  a  dozen 
others  of  our  party  had  the  same  experience.  At  short 
intervals  we  were  besieged  with  peddlers,  offering  for 
sale  all  kinds  of  antiquities. 
They  would  ask  many  times 
more  than  they  would  be  will- 
ing to  accept,  and,  if  they  got 
no  offers,  they  would  make 
them  themselves,  scaling  down 
to  a  minimum  price.  In  one 
instance  I  accepted  and  took 
possession  of  the  property  and 
handed  over  the  sum  agreed 
upon.  She  wanted  more  and 
I  tendered  to  her  the  property  if  she  would  return 
my  money.  To  this  she  declined,  holding  as  fast  to 
the  money  as  I  did  to  the  property.  She  followed  me 
quite  a  distance,  wringing  her  hands,  weeping  and 
howling  as  if  greatly  injured.  I  thought  I  saw  through 
her  scheme  and  I  stood  my  ground  until  she  became 
convinced  that  she  could  make  nothing  more  out  of  me, 
when  she  tackled  a  New  York  gentleman  just  ahead  of 
me,  working  the  same  game  and  with  better  success. 


EGYPTIAN  WOMEN. 


48  A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 

As  he  told  me  later  he  gave  in  to  save  her  mother's 
life,  who  was  dangerously  ill,  etc.  These  girls  are 
dressed  in  a  single  garment,  cut  low  and  open  in  front. 
They  do  not  wear  corsets  or  use  hooks  and  eyes,  and 
are  not  very  particular  as  to  their  exposure.  In  fact  they 
looked  very  natural  and  are  perhaps  innocent,  who 
knows?  We  first  came  to  the  statue  (now  in  a  horizon- 
tal position)  of  Rameses  II.,  immense  in  size  and  in  a 
fair  state  of  preservation.  We  passed  alongside  of  the 
mud  village  of  Rameses,  which  for  filth  and  squalor 
exceeded  anything  I  have  ever  seen  or  even  read  of. 
Soon  we  were  on  the  site  of  old  Memphis,  which  took 
me  back  to  the  burned  business  district,  after  the  great 
Chicago  fire.  Piles  of  debris  and  excavations  extended 
over  a  very  large  area.  Near  by  are  the  pyramids  of 
Sakkara,  eight  or  ten  in  number  and  mostly  of  small 
size.  Near  these  are  the  tombs  of  the  bulls,  which  we 
entered  with  candles  and  slippers,  as  usual.  An  under- 
ground passage,  extending  a  long  distance,  leads  to  the 
numerous  tombs,  which  are  located  at  either  side  of  the 
passage.  These  tombs  of  immense  stone  are  finely 
polished  and  have  various  hieroglyphics.  Others  I 
saw,  but  I  will  not  attempt  to  describe  them  at  this 
time.  One  can  scarcely  comprehend  the  amount  of 
labor  that  must  have  been  required  to  do  all  this  work 
of  the  past.  Nor  can  we  appreciate  the  conditions 
once  existing    that    called    forth    such    great    efforts 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN, 


49 


4 


for  the  perpetuation  of    ancient  rulers   and   religious 
enthusiasm. 

In  Cairo  the  Muski  is  the  chief  business  thorough- 
fare. The  busy  traffic  in  this  street  often  presents 
an  interminable,  raveled  and  twisted  string  of  men, 
women  and  animals,  of  pedestrians,  equestrians  and 
carriages  of  every  de-  «&?>■ 
scription.  The  bazaars 
present  so  many  novel 
features  that  we  vis- 
ited them  often.  The 
handsomest  shops, 
hotels,  theatres,  etc., 
are  on  the  Ezbekiyeh, 
a  beautiful  square  of 
large  proportions,with 
fine  pleasure  grounds 
in  the  center.  The 
museum  of  Balak  con- 
tains a  wonderful  col- 
lection of  Egyptian  antiquities.  I  had  supposed  that 
I  had  seen  most  of  them  at  the  British  museum  in 
London  and  at  the  Louvre  in  Paris,  but  I  was  mistaken. 
The  supply  is  equal  to,  if  not  exceeding  the  demand. 
The  hotels  at  this  time  are  crowded,  and  we  made  three 
changes  before  we  obtained  comfortable  rooms.  We 
are  now  at  Ghesireh,  built  originally  for  a  palace,  but 


I 


EGYPTIAN   GAMESTERS. 


50  A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 

now  used  as  a  hotel.  It  is  indeed  a  palace  —  very 
commodious,  furnished  royally,  and  has  large,  beautiful 
grounds.  It  is  some  three  miles  from  the  heart  of  the 
city  and  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Nile.  The  quiet  com- 
fort and  elegance  of  this  hotel  are  much  preferable  to 
the  accommodations  one  can  get  at  Sheapard's,  whose 
principal  attraction  is  due  to  the  fact  that  it  is  very 
well  located  in  the  heart  of  the  city.  Such  processions 
of  camels  one  sees  everywhere,  laden  with  about  every- 
thing, principally  alfalfa,  which  is  brought  to  the  city 
in  great  quantities,  and  in  some  cases  long  distances. 
Donkeys  are  no  less  common,  but  are  used  chiefly 
for  riding  in  the  city.  Many  handsome  carriages  and 
blooded  horses  are  to  be  seen  every  pleasant  afternoon 
The  red-coats  (British  soldiers)  are  here  in  large  num- 
bers, and  have  extensive  quarters  in  the  heart  of  the 
city.  The  Egyptian  soldiers  are  more  numerous  and 
are  a  fine  looking  lot  of  men.  They  also  have  neat, 
attractive  uniforms.  During  our  stay  here  it  has  been 
cold  and  we  have  suffered  from  it  much  of  the  time. 
The  chill  of  the  wind  is  very  trying.  The  hotels  have 
no  facilities  for  heating,  and  the  only  comfort  we  get  is 
when  the  sun  is  shining  and  when  we  are  out  of  the 
wind.  It  rained  hard  for  twenty-four  hours,  which  is 
quite  unusual  at  this  season  of  the  year.  However 
welcome  rain  is  for  the  natives,  it  was  not  desirable  for 
us.     Our   opinion    is   that    Cairo    is  a  failure    for  fine, 


A   CRUISE    ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  51 

desirable  winter  climate,  and  we  are  greatly  disap- 
pointed, having  brought  light  suits  and  underclothing, 
that  they  must  still  remain  unpacked  in  our  trunks. 
The  natives  are  so  acclimated  that  they  go  bare-footed 
and  bare-legged;  the  dress  they  have  of  light  cotton 
cloth   has   very    little    warmth,  and    is    used   more   for 


EGYPTIAN   DANCERS,   C.\IRO. 

the  purpose  of  concealing  their  upper  person  than  for 
comfort  or  beauty.  Aside  from  colds  we  are  all  very 
well  and  our  visit  here  has  been  fairly  comfortable  and 
very  instructive.  We  are  to  sail  to-morrow  from  Alex- 
andria, and  expect  to  be  at  Jaffa  for  Jerusalem  on  Sat- 
urday. From  that  point  of  interest  you  may  soon 
expect  to  hear  from  me. 


52  A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 

No.   VII. 

JERUSALEM. 

March  6,  1894. 

Leaving  Alexandria  the  2nd   inst.,  we 

arrived  at  Jaffa  the  next  morning,  but 

as  there  was  a  heavy  sea  rolling,  we 

could  not  effect  a  landing,  and  the 

result  was   that  we  were    floating 

CAESAR    CHALEEL,  r  1  l 

DRAGOMAN  AT  JERUSALEM,  aoout  for  twcnty-four  hours  be- 
fore we  cast  anchor,  and  then  it  was  so  rough  that 
only  a  part  of  our  passengers  had  the  courage  to 
attempt  a  landing.  Jaffa  has  no  harbor,  and  ships  have 
to  cast  anchor  quite  a  distance  from  shore.  As 
usual,  there  were  row  boats  in  abundance  to  take  us  to 
the  landing.  Fortunately  these  were  of  large  size,  well- 
manned  and,  no  doubt,  very  safe.  I  am  of  the  impres- 
sion that  they  are  known  as  yawls  ;  in  any  event  they 
seemed  so  from  the  amount  of  "yawling"  and  "yelling" 
that  was  made  by  the  sailors.  Our  landing  was  made 
without  mishap,  with  the  exception  of  a  slight  accident 
to  Mrs.  Booth,  of  Chicago,  who  received  quite  a  shock 
from  one  of  the  row  boats  getting  caught  under  the 
steps  that  lead  from  the  side  of  the  ship  to  the  smaller 
boats.  She  sustained  herself  heroically,  and  soon  the 
trouble  was  over.  Such  rolling  and  pitching  as  we  had 
was  enough  to  tax  the  nerves  of  sailors,  and  the  ladies 
of  our  party  are  entitled  to  much  credit  for  the  quiet 


A    CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  53 

resignation  with  which  they  were  prepared  to  meet 
death  in  the  attempt  to  see  the  Holy  Land.  The  view 
from  our  ship,  of  Jaffa,  situated  on  a  high  bluff,  gave  it 
the  appearance  of  being  a  beautiful  city,  but  on  landing 
and  making  our  way  through  its  narrow,  filthy  streets 
to  the  railroad  station,  we  came  to  the  conclusion  that 
"distance  lends  enchantment  to  the  view."  Jaffa  is  the 
main  seaport  of  Palestine  from  Europe  and  Egypt,  and 
is  the  nearest  to  Jerusalem.  It  abounds  in  historic 
interest,  which  for  lack  of  time  I  will  not  undertake  to 
mention  except  in  a  very  brief  way.  It  was  the  bound- 
ary line  of  the  tribe  of  Dan — was  the  port  from  which 
Jonah  sailed  when  he  was  swallowed  by  a  whale— is 
where  the  Apostle  Peter  restored  Dorcas  to  life,  and 
contained  the  house  of  Simon  the  tanner,  etc.  Jaffa 
has  a  population  of  i8,000  inhabitants,  three-fourths  of 
whom  are  Jews.  It  is  of  considerable  commercial  im- 
portance, as  it  is  the  base  of  supply  for  the  entire 
country.  Oranges  of  fine  quality  and  liberal  quantities 
are  produced  in  its  immediate  vicinity.  From  Jaffa  to 
Jerusalem  by  rail  is  about  forty  miles,  and  time  is  about 
four  hours.  We  passed  through  the  plain  of  Sharon, 
which  is  beautiful  at  this  season  of  the  year.  The  fields 
are  large,  and  the  fresh,  green  appearance  of  the  grain 
and  meadows  was  quite  like  our  western  prairies  in 
June.  Large  herds  of  cattle  and  sheep  were  to  be  seen 
as   far   as   the  eye   could  reach.     From  the  plain  we 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  55 

ascended  the  mountains  of  Judea,  where  we  wound  our 
way  through  deep  gorges  and  along  the  barren  moun- 
tain sides  to  Jerusalem,  where  we  beheld  the  Holy  City, 
so  full  of  ancient  and  sacred  history.  While  our  first 
feelings  were  those  of  unbounded  joy,  they  were  soon 
changed  to  pity  and  sorrow  from  having  come  in  con- 
tact with  its  filthy  streets  and  filthy  inhabitants.  There 
is  hardly  a  single  symptom  of  either  comfort  or  happi- 
ness, which  condition  is  said  to  exist  throughout  the 
whole  country.  What  a  pity  that  these  people  should 
not  associate  cleanliness  with  godliness.  True  it  is 
that  these  people  are  poor,  but  as  water  and  time  are 
in  good  supply  there  is  no  excuse  for  such  filth  and 
neglect.  Our  desire  has  been  gratified  to  see  this  land 
where  lived  Abraham,  Isaac  and  Jacob;  to  see  the  city 
conquered  by  David  and  enriched  by  Solomon;  to  see 
the  spot  where  our  Savior  gave  up  the  ghost  to  save 
mankind  and  where,  on  the  same  spot,  the  godlike 
Godfrey  de  Bouillon,  i,o88  years  later,  planted  the 
standard  of  the  cross,  and  rescued  the  Holy  City  from 
Mohammedan  rule  after  a  possession  of  460  years.  On 
our  arrival  at  Jerusalem,  Sunday  evening,  we  were 
driven  to  the  Cazenova,  a  hotel  or  boarding  house  kept 
by  monks  who  conduct  it  for  profit  and  charity  (in  our 
case  good  profit).  Catholic  pilgrims,  without  money, 
here  find  accommodations  without  charge.  The  house 
is  large,  very  clean  and  might  be  comfortable  in  hot 


56 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 


weather,  but  we  found  it  one  of  the  coldest  imaginable. 
Thick  walls  of  stone,  stone  floors,  iron  cots;  it  seemed 
more  like  a  prison  than  a  hotel.  The  table  was  of  the 
most  ordinary,  but  we  managed  to  exist  our  allotted 
time  of  two  days.  We  were  glad  to  get  there,  and 
doubly  glad  to  flee  away.  Yes,  we  fled,  but  not  without 
\.\iQ.  fleas,  of  which  all  have  souvenirs  that  we  may  have 
to  take  home  with  us.  I  doubt  if  they  can  penetrate 
the  skins  of  the  natives,  with  their  elephant  hides,  but 
with  us  poor,  thin-skinned  pilgrims  they  had  a  "feast  of 
season  and  a  curse  of  souls."  The  next  morning, bright 
and  early,  we  drove  out  to  Bethlehem,  cold  and  shaky; 
an  hour's  ride  over  a  good  road,  over  hills  and  through 
valleys,  from  which  point  we  saw  the  plain  on  which 
David  fought  and  conquered  the  Philistines;  the  River 
Jordan  and  the  Dead  Sea.  We  halted  at  the  well 
where  the  wise  men  drank,  when  to  their  delight  the 
star  reappeared  which  they  had  seen  in  the  East. 

Rachel's  tomb  at 
the  roadside 
was  another 
object  of  in- 
terest to  us. 
At  David's 
well,  on  the 
way,  we  par- 
^_^ took    of    the 

TOMB  OF  RACHEL. 


A    CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  57 

water  in  a  limited  quantity,  and  with  some  doubts 
as  to  its  purity,  owing  to  its  untidy  attendants  and 
general  surroundings.  Winding  our  way  through  the 
narrow  and  filthy  streets,  tenanted  by  the  Jews,  we 
were  in  Bethlehem,  a  city  having  a  population  of  5,000, 
nearly  all  of  whom  are  Christians.  It  is  believed  that 
the  present  people  are  children  of  the  crusaders,  allied 
with  Syrian  and  Saracenic  blood.  The  inhabitants  are 
noted  for  energy  and  intelligence  and  its  women  for 
grace  and  beauty.  We  regret  to  say  we  saw  none  of  it. 
In  the  most  prominent  portion  of  the  town,  and  rising 
conspicuously  above  all  other  buildings,  is  the  embat- 
tled monastery,  an  enormous  pile  of  buildings,  consist- 
ing of  Latin,  Greek  and  Armenian  convents,  which 
surround  the  church  used  in  common,  which  stands 
over  the  Cave  of  the  Nativity.  This  church,  erected 
in  the  early  part  of  the  fourth  century  by  Helena, 
mother  of  Constantine,  is  the  oldest  Christian  church 
in  the  world.  The  ceiling  is  composed  of  beams  of 
cedar  from  the  forest  of  Lebanon.  Descending  a  few 
steps,  and  traversing  a  long  passage,  we  entered  the 
crypt  or  Chapel  of  the  Nativity.  The  floor  and  walls 
are  marble.  At  the  eastern  end  is  a  silver  star,  around 
which  are  the  words  (when  interpreted),  "Here  Christ 
was  born  of  the  Virgin  Mary."  About  twenty  feet 
from  this  star  there  is  a  small  recess  in  the  rock  in 
which  is  a  block  of  marble  hollowed  out  to  represent  a 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  5g 

manger.  The  original  wooden  one  is  now  in  the  church 
Maria  Maggiore  at  Rome,  and  there  shown  by  the  Pope 
in  the  Christmas  day  ceremonies.  In  front  of  the  man- 
ger is  the  altar  of  the  Magi.  Also  here  are  the  altars 
of  the  Innocents,  2,000  of  whom  were  thrown  there 
after  the  massacre  of  Herod,  the  altar  of  the  Shep- 
herds, and  the  altar  of  Joseph,  where  he  retired  at  the 
moment  of  the  Nativity.  Below  the  convent,  on  the 
outside,  is  the  Woman's  Grotto,  in  which,  tradition  says, 
Joseph,  Mary  and  the  baby  once  sought  shelter  and 
concealment.  A  drop  of  the  Blessed  Virgin's  milk  fell 
on  the  floor,  which  spot  was  pointed  out  to  us,  and  we 
are  supposed  to  have  seen  it,  but  if  so  it  was  largely 
imaginary.  Both  the  Christian  and  Moslem  believe 
that  a  visit  to  the  cave,  or  possession  of  a  small  piece 
of  the  stone,  has  the  power  of  supernaturally  increasing 
a  woman's  milk,  consequently  small  pieces  of  the  stone 
and  the  dust  are  in  great  demand,  and  are  conveyed  to 
all  parts  of  the  world  by  visitors.  We,  however,  took 
none  of  it.  On  our  way  back  to  the  hotel  for  luncheon, 
we  left  our  carriages  and  walked  up  Mount  Zion,  where 
we  saw  David's  Tomb,  the  site  of  the  Last  Supper,  and 
the  Column  of  the  Scourging.  After  luncheon  we  took 
donkeys  for  the  Mosque  of  Omar,  situated  on  the 
foundation  walls  of  Solomon's  Temple,  which  has  been, 
since  the  time  of  David,  considered  the  most  sacred 
ground  in  Jerusalem.     It  was  with  both  wonder  and 


6o  A   CRUISK   ON   THK    MEDITERRANEAN. 

amazement  that  we  beheld  this  most  sacred  spot.  Our 
recollections  of  Sabbath-school  lessons  and  Bible  read- 
ing came  vividly  to  mind.  Here  the  foundation  of 
Solomon's  Temple  was  laid  over  1,000  years  before 
Christ;  here  is  the  Holy  of  Holies,  Mount  Moriah. 
The  whole  inclosure  is  1,500  feet  long  by  1,000  feet 
wide.  In  the  center  is  the  mosque,  a  building  in  regu- 
lar octagon  form,  about  sixty  feet  each  side,  supporting  a 
beautiful  dome.  The  sides  are  all  marvelously  panelled 
in  white  and  blue  marble.  The  interior  is  most  magnifi- 
cent. In  the  center  lies  a  large  irregular  stone  nearly 
fifty  feet  in  diameter,  surrounded  by  an  ornamental  iron 
railing,  sufficiently  high  to  keep  hands  off.  To  this 
stone  this  gorgeous  temple  owes  its  existence.  It  is  in 
itself  the  highest  point  of  Mount  Moriah.  Before  the 
rule  of  the  Mohammedan,  the  Christian  regarded  it  as 
the  Holy  of  Holies.  By  the  Mussulman  it  is  believed 
to  be  a  stone  of  prophecy,  and  to  have  fallen  from 
Heaven.  When  the  prophets  were  compelled  to  flee 
for  safety  to  other  lands,  the  stone  expressed  a  desire 
to  accompany  them,  but  the  angel  Gabriel,  seizing 
it  in  his  mighty  hand,  intercepted  its  flight  until 
Mohammed  arrived,  who  fixed  it  eternally  on  its  pres- 
ent site.  The  truth  is  here  indelibly  fixed  in  the  rock — 
namely,  the  print  of  the  prophet's  foot  and  the  print  of 
the  arch-angel's  hand  when  he  prevented  the  flight  of 
the  stone.     These  imprints  are  visible  to  the  naked  eye, 


A  CRUISE  ON  THF.  mp:oitkrkani-:an. 


6i 


but  what  we  saw  we  were  disposed  to  believe  with 
grains  of  allowance.  Underneath  the  rock  is  the 
cave  where  Mohammed  rested  after  his  flight  from 
Mecca  to  Jerusalem.  In  the  excavation  known  as 
Solomon's  Stable,  below  this 
mass  of  rock,  are  i,ooo 
massive  stone  columns  with 
sufficient  space  to  drive  a 
coach  and  four  or  shelter  a 
big  army.  The  immense 
amount  of  time  and  labor 
involved  in  this  work  is  small 
as  compared  with  that  of  the 
erection  of  Solomon's  Tem- 
ple that  stood  above  it. 
On   the   eastern  wall  of  the  tomb  of  absalom. 

harem  is  the  Golden  Gate,  where  Christ  is  said  to 
have  made  his  entry  into  Jerusalem.  This  is  held  as 
most  sacred,  and  no  person  is  allowed  to  descend 
the  steps  which  lead  to  it.  Our  next  was  a  visit  to 
the  Holy  Sepulchre,  which  is  within  the  walls,  and 
covers  some  twelve  or  thirteen  places  consecrated  to 
more  than  ordinary  veneration  by  being  in  some 
way  connected  with  the  death  and  resurrection  of 
the  Savior.  The  church,  it  is  pretended,  not  only 
covers  the  site  of  Calvary  and  the  tomb  of  Joseph 
and  Nicodemus,  but  also  the  place  where  the  Savior 


62  A    CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 

appeared  to  Mary,  his  mother,  after  the  resurrection; 
where  Constantine's  mother  found  the  true  cross;  where 
the  angel  appeared;  where  the  Savior  appeared  to 
Mary  Magdalene.  As  we  entered  the  door  of  the 
sacred  walls,  the  first  object  that  was  pointed  out  to  us 
was  a  large  fiat  stone,  called  the  Stone  of  Unction,  over 
which  several  lamps  were  suspended.  This  is  where 
the  Lord's  body  was  anointed  before  burial  by  the  holy 
women.  Here  we  saw  the  devout  Russian  pilgrims 
cross  themselves  and,  kneeling,  kiss  the  stone  with  the 
greatest  reverence;  with  tears  in  their  eyes  they  would 
linger  at  these  sacred  spots,  so  overcome  with  grief 
that  they  could  scarcely  make  room  for  others  who 
were  waiting.  Of  these  Russian  peasants,  some  3,000 
have  recently  arrived,  and  we  saw  them  everywhere  we 
went.  Honest,  devout  faces  they  had,  and  all  aged. 
Both  men  and  women  were  dressed  poorly,  and  all 
alike.  It  seemed  pitiable  that  they  should  undergo 
such  hardship  and  real  suffering  to  visit  the  Holy  Land. 
Their  means  are  so  limited  that  they  have  to  make  the 
journey  on  foot  so  far  as  possible;  they  have  to  live  on 
bread  or  other  cheap  food  that  will  merely  sustain  life. 
The  church  encourages  these  pilgrimages,  and  the  sus- 
taining of  monarchy  is  through  the  church.  Hence 
comes  slavery  to  the  masses.  This  applies  not  only  to 
Russia,  but  Spain,  Italy  and  other  Catholic  countries. 
Religious  slavery  and  monarchical  knavery  go  hand  in 


A   CRUISE    ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 


63 


hand.     After  visiting  the  Garden  of  Gethsemane  on  the 

way  to  the  Mount  of  Olives,  we  obtained  a  good  view 

of  the  River  Jordan 

and  the  mountains 

and  valleys  over  a 

large     expanse    of 

country;    we  were 

glad    to   return   to 

our  hotel  and  give 

the    poor   donkeys 

a  rest.       The   bal-  river  jordan. 

ance  of  our  limited  time  here  was  spent  in  shopping 

and  walking  about  the  city,  which  was  full  of  interest. 

Our  curiosity  gratified,  our  stomachs  and  pocket-books 

depleted,    we  will  be   glad   to   again   get  to   our  ship, 

which  is  to  take  us  to  Smyrna,  from  which  place  you 

may  soon  hear  from  us  again. 


No.  VIIL  SMYRNA. 

March  10,  1894. 

Leaving  Jaffa  on  the  afternoon  of  the  6th  inst.,  we 

arrived   at   Smyrna    on    the    morning  of    the    8th.     A 

calm  had  followed  the  storm  and  our  embarkation  was 

quiet,  comfortable  and  pleasant.     That  afternoon  and 

the   following  day  the    Mediterranean  was  at  its  best 

and  more  like  what  we  had  read  of  it,  than  what  we  had 

previously  experienced. 


64 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 


The  waters  were  indeed  blue,  but  we  were  not.  The 
air  was  soft  and  mild  and,  for  the  first  time  during  our 
trip,  overcoats  were  not  essential  for  comfort.  We 
began  to  realize  what  we  had  so  fondly  anticipated  —  a 
delightful  winter  trip  to  the  Orient. 

Arriving  at  Smyrna  our  first  view  was  of  the  snow- 
capped mountains  in  the  distance,  which  gave  us  a 
shudder  and  a  chill,  as  we  had  hoped  and  expected  to 


IN   SMYRNA. 


see  no  more  of  "  the  beautiful"  during  the  balance  of 
the  trip.  However,  as  we  surveyed  the  magnificent 
land-locked  harbor  and  the  charming  city,  resting  so 
quietly  on  the  hillsides,  we  were  reconciled  with  the 
situation  and  glad  that  we  were  there. 

Smyrna,  in  ancient  times  one  of  the  most  important, 
is  now  one  of  the  greatest  cities  in  Asia  Minor.     It  has 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  65 

a  population  of  200,000  inhabitants.  It  is  the  chief 
emporium  of  trade  and  commerce  in  the  Levant.  It  is 
celebrated  for  its  carpets,  rugs  and  figs,  which  are 
exported  to  nearly  all  parts  of  the  world.  Its  narrow 
streets  and  boulder  pavements  are  best  suited  to  camels, 
of  which  we  saw  great  numbers,  one  after  another,  in 
single  file,  the  leader  having  what  we  would  call  a 
cowbell,  of  good  size  and  shrill  tone.  We  started  out  in 
carriages,  expecting  to  drive  for  some  time,  but  experi- 
encing a  good  deal  of  delay  and  discomfort  we  soon 
discharged  them,  as  walking  was  preferable.  The  worst 
corduroy  roads  I  ever  saw  were  far  more  comfortable 
riding  over  than  the  rock  pavements  that  we  found  in  the 
principal  streets.  The  streets  are  so  narrow  that  carriages 
cannot  pass  in  many  places,  and  so  crooked  and  short 
that  it  was  difficult  to  keep  the  points  of  the  compass. 

The  Turkish  bazaars  are  huddled  together  over  a 
large  space  of  the  quarters  and  were  very  interesting  to 
visit.  While  the  shops  are  small,  the  display  they 
make  is  large  and  very  attractive.  We  were  reminded 
of  our  decoration  days  at  home  by  the  display  thej' 
make  of  fabrics  in  bright  colors.  I  looked  in  several 
places  for  plain  white  silk  handkerchiefs,  but  could  find 
none,  everything  shown  being  in  fancy  colors,  stamped 
or  embroidered. 

Ephesus,  some  twenty  miles  by  rail,  we  did  not  visit 
for  want  of  time;  the  few  who  did  were  not  enthusi- 


66  A   CRUISE   ON   THE   MEDITERRANEAN. 

astic  over  what  they  saw  of  the  ruins  of  the  Temple  of 
Diana,  formerly  one  of  the  Seven  Wonders  of  the 
World,  and  rich  in  the  remarkable  events  of  ancient 
history.  In  the  harbor,  anchored  near  our  ship,  lay  the 
Chicago,  one  of  our  new  fleet  of  warships.  It  was  with 
pride  and  pleasure  that  we  saw  her  beautiful  snow-white 
form  and  in  bold  letters  at  her  stern  "  Chicago." 

Yes,  Chicago  was  there  in  those  far-away  waters, 
and,  no  matter  how  distant  or  where  we  may  be,  we 
find  somebody  or  something  that  reflects  credit  on  our 
incomparable  city.  Several  of  our  passengers  visited 
the  ship  and  were  well  entertained  by  its  officers,  who, 
in  the  evening,  came  over  to  our  ship  and  participated 
in  the  dance  and  german  that  are  of  frequent  occurrence 
while  we  are  laying  at  anchor.  We  have  a  fine  band 
and  music  several  times  each  day,  which  help  to  pass 
the  time  away  very  pleasantly. 

ATHENS. 

Leaving  Smyrna  at  midnight,  we  arrived  at  Athens 
on  the  following  afternoon.  The  weather  was  good  and 
the  sun  most  enjoyable.  Much  of  the  time  we  were  in 
sight  of  and  often  very  close  to  the  islands,  which  are 
very  numerous  in  these  waters.  But  for  their  barren 
and  sterile  appearance  they  would  be  not  less  attrac- 
tive than  the  Thousand  Islands  of  the  River  St.  Law- 
rence, of  which  we  have  pleasant  recollections.  Pass- 
ing alongside  and  between  these  numerous  islands,  in 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  67 

due  time  we  were  in  sight  of  Athens  and  in  the  harbor 
of  Piraeus,  which  is  distant  from  Athens  six  miles  and 
connected  by  railroad.  Pinxus  has  a  small  harbor,  but 
a  very  perfectly  protected  one.  The  town  is  small,  but 
beautifully  situated,  overlooking  the  water  from  three 
sides.  It  has  beautiful  villas,  broad  streets  and  as 
perfect  concrete  roads  as  our  best  boulevards  at  home. 
And  now  we  are  in  Athens.  Modern  Athens  is  a 
beautiful  city  of  about  85,000  inhabitants.  Broad 
streets  and  perfect  macadam  pavements  throughout 
the  new  part,  with  its  solid  marble  front  buildings  of 
most  beautiful  and  modern  architecture,  make  this 
indeed  one  of  the  most  attractive  cities  to  be  found  in 
either  the  Old  or  New  World.  Of  the  old  part  but 
little  exists  except  its  ruins,  which  are,  of  course,  the 
great  attraction  for  tourists  and  lovers  of  antiquity. 
The  limits  of  ancient  Greece  were  much  more  exten- 
sive than  those  of  the  modern  kingdom,  which  in  area 
is  about  the  size  of  Vermont  and  New  Hampshire.  Its 
people  are  proud,  industrious,  contented  and  happy. 
Their  costumes  are  neat  and  attractive.  The  national 
Greek  or  Albanian  costume  consists  of  a  high  fez,  with 
long  blue  tassel,  a  blue  or  red  jacket  with  open  sleeves 
and  richly  embroidered,  a  vest  of  similar  description, 
shirt  with  wide  and  flowing  sleeves,  a  leathern  belt  with 
pouch  for  weapons,  short  breeches,  red  gaiters  and 
pointed  red  shoes  with  tassels  on  the  tips.    The  women 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  69 

generally  wear  French  clothing  and  are  altogether  good- 
looking.  The  peasant  women  retain  their  national  cos- 
tume, consisting  of  long  petticoat,  embroidered  on  the 
sleeves  and  skirt,  with  a  woolen  dress  above  it;  they 
adorn  their  hair  and  necks  with  chains  of  coins  strung 
together.  The  little  girls  of  the  higher  class  were  very 
attractive  in  their  embroidered  dresses  in  artistic  colors. 

Of  the  history  of  Greece  I  will  not  write,  and  of  the 
ruins  in  Athens  I  have  neither  the  time,  space  nor  ability 
to  do  them  justice.  The  Acropolis,  or  citadel,  crowns 
the  summit  of  a  rocky  hill  which  rises  abruptly  out  of 
the  plain  in  the  midst  of  the  city.  It  was  a  fortress 
from  the  earliest  ages.  The  highest  point  of  its  plateau 
is  500  feet  above  the  sea-level.  The  walls  which  are 
built  upon  the  edge  of  the  perpendicular  rock,  form  a 
circuit  of  nearly  7,000  feet  and  are  of  great  antiquity. 
The  propylaea  were  commenced  437  b.  c.  and  remained 
in  perfect  preservation  until  the  fourteenth  century. 
The  Temple  of  Victory,  without  wings,  stands  to  the 
right  of  the  entrance  to  the  Acropolis.  It  was  demol- 
ished by  the  Turks  in  1687,  when  besieged  by  the 
Venetians.  The  Parthenon  was  built  during  the  admin- 
istration of  Pericles  and  was  finished  438  b.  c.  It  was 
200  feet  long,  by  100  feet  wide,  and  sufficient  now 
remains  to  fill  the  spectator  with  astonishment  and  awe. 

The  cost  of  the  building  was  nearly  $3,000,000.  The 
walls  of  the  principal  building  were  surrounded  with  a 


70  A    CRUISE    ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 

peristyle  containing  forty-eight  white  marble  columns 
of  the  Doric  order.  These  columns  were  six  feet  at 
the  base  and  thirty-four  feet  high  until  1687,  during  the 
Venetian  siege,  when  the  explosion  of  a  powder  mag- 
azine tore  off  the  roof  and  overthrew  a  great  part  of 
the  temple.  It  is  only  by  being  upon  the  spot  that 
one  can  get  a  good  idea  of  its  former  greatness  and 
beauty;  also  its  appearance  of  destruction.  These 
immense  columns  now  lie  as  they  fell,  and  the  earth  is 
covered  with  the  debris  of  broken  columns  and  sculp- 
ture of  the  highest  order.  The  sight  is  sad  and  over- 
whelming. The  Acropolis,  which  was  the  pride  of 
Greece,  the  perfection  of  all  art  and  envy  of  the  world, 
had  four  distinct  characters,  viz.:  the  fortress  of  the 
city,  the  sacred  shrine  for  all  offerings,  the  treasury  and 
the  museum  of  art  of  the  Athenian  people. 

A  short  distance  to  the  west  of  this  is  Mars  Hill,  of 
great  interest  to  Christian  people  as  the  spot  from 
which  the  Apostle  Paul  addressed  the  assembled 
multitude  of  ancient  Athenians. 

The  Tower  of  the  Winds,  or  the  water  clock,  though 
dismantled,  is  in  a  fair  state  of  preservation.  Its  eight 
sides  face  in  the  direction  of  the  eight  winds.  The  sym- 
bolic figures  of  the  different  winds  are  sculptured  on  the 
frieze  and  show  traces  of  fine  art  as  well  as  ingenuity. 

The  Temple  of  Jupiter  Olympus  was  formerly  550 
feet  long  by  170  feet  wide,  with  120  Corinthian  columns 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  Jl 

sixty  feet  in  height  and  seven  feet  in  diameter;  of  these 
columns  sixteen  remain  in  good  condition.  They  are 
very  conspicuous  and  show  the  perfection  of  Corin- 
thian architecture,  which  modern  science  has  not 
improved  upon. 

The  Theatre  of  Bacchus  was  built  about  500  b.  c. 
The  seats  cut  in  the  side  of  the  hill  of  the  Acropolis 
are  still  to  be  seen,  also  the  front  row  of  marble  chairs 
that  were  occupied  by  the  dignitaries.  Their  names 
were  engraved  and  are  to  be  seen  on  the  several  chairs 
in  the  semicircle. 

The  Temple  of  Theseus  is  the  best  preserved  of 
all  the  temples  in  Greece  or  Italy.  The  honors  of  this 
temple  were  divided  with  Hercules  and  ten  metopes. 
The  eastern  side  represents  the  exploits  of  that  hero, 
while  the  other  sides  are  devoted  to  Theseus. 

The  king's  palace,  erected  in  1838,  is  in  the  heart 
of  the  city,  has  a  commanding  view  and  is  large  and 
spacious.  Our  guide  obtained  for  us  a  permit  to  inspect 
the  interior,  where  we  saw  battle  flags,  beautiful  paint- 
ings, sculpture  and  an  English  bicycle.  Evidently  some 
of  the  princes  (there  are  several  sons)  ride  the  "  bike." 
While  at  the  palace  we  saw  the  king  and  queen,  with 
the  crown  prince  and  princess,  take  their  carriages  for 
an  afternoon  drive.  The  king  and  crown  prince  were 
in  military  dress  and  the  ladies  in  French  or  other 
fashionable  costumes.     We  received  a  bow  from  them 


72  A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 

in  return  for  our  greeting,  but  no  invitation  to  dine. 
As  we  had  not  sent  in  our  cards,  this  is  not  strange. 

The  enterprise  of  the  modern  Athenians  is  every- 
where conspicuous.  They  have  a  capacious  and  beau- 
tiful exposition  building  that  was  built  by  private 
subscription.  The  Academy  of  Science  is  also  large  and 
has  beautiful  paintings  and  sculpture.  The  museum  is 
large  and  contains  a  wonderful  collection  of  Grecian 
and  Egyptian  antiquities.  There  are  several  big 
hotels,  all  well  kept.  The  stores  are  mostly  large, 
beautiful  buildings,  and  some  contain  the  finest  goods 
and  wares  that  are  to  be  purchased  anywhere.  The 
architecture  is  mostly  of  the  Corinthian  style  and  the 
material,  white  marble,  gives  the  city  that  clean, 
white  appearance  so  desirable.  The  king  and  queen 
are  very  popular  with  the  people,  and  but  a  short 
time  ago  500  of  the  citizens  attended  the  royal  ball 
given  at  the  palace  by  their  rulers.  Modern  Athens 
has  a  good  future,  and  history  may  yet  accord  to  the 
Athenians  the  honors  that  their  forefathers  so  nobly 
attained.  We  appreciate  the  opportunity  of  seeing 
such  progress  in  these  foreign  lands,  and  very  much 
doubt  if  we  shall  see  other  cities  on  this  trip  that  will 
compare  favorably  with  it. 

We  are  all  well,  as  well  as  well  pleased.  Leaving 
Piraeus  early  Sunday  morning,  we  are  due  in  Constan- 
tinople Monday  morning. 


A    CRUISE    ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  73 

No.  IX. 

CONSTANTINOPLE. 

March  15,  1894. 
The  run  from  Athens  here,  of  about  twenty  hours, 
was  pleasant  and  interesting,  as  much  of  the  time  we 
were  near  by  or  in  sight  of  the  numerous  islands  that 
loom  up  in  these  waters.  As  we  entered  the  great  city 
by  daylight  we  obtained  a  grand  and  imposing  view  of 
its  overwhelming  beauty.  From  the  water's  edge  and 
towering  far  above  we  saw  the  two  parallel  chains  of 
the  city,  with  its  parks,  monuments,  mosques  and  hun- 
dreds of  minarets  with  shining  pinnacles  rising  into  the 
sky.  Constantinople  proper,  the  Turkish  Stamboul, 
lies  on  a  long,  horn-shaped  promontory,  between  the 
Sea  of  Marmora  and  the  Golden  Horn.  It  is  connected 
by  bridges  with  the  modern  cities  of  Galata  and  Pera 
on  the  other  side  of  the  Golden  Horn.  Scutari  lies  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  Bosphorus,  in  Asia,  and  is 
beautifully  situated.  As  a  steam  tug  had  been  char- 
tered for  our  landing  we  got  ashore  with  comfort  and 
promptitude.  Nevertheless  the  rowboats  were  there 
by  the  hundreds  and  thousands,  some  small  and  light 
for  passengers,  others  big  and  heavy  for  freight.  It  was 
surprising  to  see  what  big  boats  and  heavy  freight  one 
or  two  oarsmen  could  transport.  The  harbor  was  well 
filled  with  steamers  receiving  or  discharging  freight. 
All  that  comes  or  goes  from  these  boats  is  propelled 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  75 

mostly  by  hand.  Upon  landing  at  a  miserable  little 
wharf,  we  were  crowded  into  the  middle  of  a  narrow 
street,  literally  packed  with  pedestrians,  horses,  car- 
riages and  dogs.  However,  we  found  our  guide,  or 
dragoman,  who  put  us  in  carriages,  and  away  we  went, 
across  the  roughest  and  toughest  old  bridge  probably 
on  earth,  for  Stamboul,  where  we  first  saw  St.  Sophia, 
the  largest  mosque  in  the  world.  It  was  commenced 
in  the  year  532  and  completed  in  538.  It  cost  ^5,000,000, 
and  10,000  masons  were  employed  for  seven  years 
in  its  erection.  The  mosque  is  in  the  form  of  a 
Greek  cross,  270  feet  long  and  243  feet  wide  and  is  sur- 
mounted in  the  center  by  a  dome,  the  middle  of  which 
is  180  feet  above  the  floor.  There  are,  in  addition,  two 
larger  and  six  smaller  semi-domes,  with  four  minarets, 
the  whole  forming  a  magnificent  appearance  from  the 
exterior.  Of  the  170  columns  of  marble,  granite  and 
porphyry,  eight  were  those  taken  by  Aurelius  from  the 
Temple  of  the  Sun  at  Baalbec;  eight  in  green  marble 
came  from  the  Temple  of  Diana  at  Ephesus;  others 
from  the  Temples  of  the  Sun  and  Moon  at  Heliopolis, 
and  from  Athens.  Thus  every  heathen  temple  renowned 
in  antiquity  furnished  a  part,  and  the  columns  which 
formerly  looked  down  on  numerous  gods,  now  stand 
in  the  house  of  the  Supreme  Lord  surmounted  by  the 
cross.  The  Sultan  visits  this  mosque  once  each  year, 
and  to-morrow  is  to  be  the  day.     Were  we  to  remain 


76  A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 

we  would  endeavor  to  see  him,  and  also  the  military, 
which  is  to  be  out  in  a  grand  review.  We  made  an 
effort  to  have  our  ship  remain  another  day,  but  our 
captain  could  not  grant  it.  We  have  probably  missed 
a  grand  sight  and  escaped  a  great  crush. 

Of  the  400  mosques  in  and  about  Constantinople, 
we  visited  all  but  399.  They  are  all  alike  except  in 
size,  and  one  was  enough  to  satisfy  our  curiosity. 
There  is  one  sanitary  feature  at  all  the  mosques  that  is 
very  desirable,  and  that  is  the  water  and  marble  troughs, 
in  which  all  the  worshipers  must  perform  their  ablu- 
tions before  entering  the  mosque.  The  custom  is 
wholesome,  and,  judging  from  their  appearance,  a 
much  needed  one.  In  our  circuit  we  passed  the  Cleo- 
patra needle  brought  from  Egypt,  of  which  London 
and  Paris  have  much  larger  ones;  also  the  Burnt  Pillar, 
120  feet  in  height.  This  is  laid  up  in  stone  masonry 
and  was  originally  covered  with  copper,  but  was  dis- 
mantled by  the  enemy  for  the  purpose  of  making  it 
into  coin. 

The  sultans'  tombs  we  visited,  where  we  saw  the 
curious  custom  of  placing  over  the  tombs,  by  their 
surviving  wives,  the  very  finest  shawls  that  it  is  possible 
to  procure.  At  the  head  of  each  tomb  was  a  chest  in 
which  the  Koran,  that  was  written  by  the  departed, 
was  enclosed.  Each  sultan  must  write  the  Koran 
during  his  life. 


A    CRUISK   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  "J"] 

At  the  museum  of  the  Janissaries  we  saw  plaster  of 
paris  life-size  figures  of  soldiers,  artisans  and  others  in 
their  native  costumes  from  the  earliest  ages,  which  do 
not  materially  differ  from  the  present.  At  the  Museum 
of  Antiquities  we  saw  the  original  tomb  of  Alexander 
the  Great,  which  has  most  beautiful  and  elaborate 
sculpture.  Other  than  this,  "burst  antiquities"  ex- 
presses it  all.  The  cistern  of  lOOi  columns  is  now  dry, 
but  it  is  said  to  have  once  furnished  water  for  1,000,000 
men  during  four  months.  It  could  be  put  to  good  use 
by  filling  it  up  with  the  dogs  lying  about  the  streets 
and  then  close  it  up  for  all  time.  The  dogs  are  a 
noticeable  feature,  as  they  are  to  be  seen  in  great 
numbers.  They  are  protected  and  encouraged,  as  they 
perform  the  duties  of  scavengers,  and  seem  of  a  friendly 
and  peaceable  disposition.  In  appearance  they  resem- 
ble our  prairie  wolves  and  are  certainly  not  sightly. 
They  monopolize  the  right  of  way,  and  all  passers-by 
do  not  disturb  them  while  they  are  lying  on  the  side- 
walks or  in  the  streets.  They  are  not  allowed  to  roam, 
and  they  die  without  having  gone  beyond  the  street  in 
which  they  were  born. 

We  took  a  small  local  passenger  steamer  and  made 
a  trip  around  the  Golden  Horn,  which  is  one  of  the  best 
protected  harbors  we  ever  saw.  Here  we  saw  the 
Turkish  navy,  many  ships  lying  at  anchor,  some  of 
which  are  large,  and,  no  doubt,  modern  and  first-class. 


78  A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 

By  special  request  our  ship  made  a  trip  through  the 
Bosphorus  to  the  Black  Sea,  which  we  found  very  in- 
teresting. On  either  side  are  hills  and  valleys,  with 
frequent  villages  and  many  beautiful  residences.  One 
of  the  Sultan's  palaces  (in  which  the  deposed  Ismail 
Pacha  is  now  imprisoned)  was  in  plain  view  and  close 
to  the  water's  edge.  Just  beyond,  on  a  high  bluff,  is  the 
Roberts  school  (English),  which  has  300  boys,  none  of 
whom  are  Turks.  The  building  and  grounds  are  very 
fine,  and,  in  passing,  the  boys  were  all  out  and  cheered 
us  in  a  most  enthusiastic  manner.  The  American 
flag  was  flung  to  the  breeze,  and,  of  course,  we  returned 
the  compliment.  Extensive  fortifications  are  on  either 
side  of  the  Bosphorus,  which  make  this  channel  im- 
pregnable, as  the  width  at  the  point  of  the  forts  is  per- 
haps only  half  a  mile  and  at  its  widest  points  one  to 
two  miles. 

Through  the  kindness  of  our  American  consul  the 
ladies  of  our  party  received  invitations  to  visit  the 
palace  of  Ahmed  Aly  Pacha,  which  they  did  promptly 
by  appointment.  Although  men  are  not  admitted  to 
the  harem,  I  went  with  them,  expecting  to  wait  on  the 
outside  and  see  that  none  of  them  were  retained.  On 
presentation  of  their  cards  they  were  promptly  ad- 
mitted and  ushered  into  a  reception  room,  where  they 
were  introduced  to  the  first  and  honored  wife  of  the 
Pacha;    she  then  introduced  her  mother  and  later  the 


A   CRUISE   ON    THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  79 

younger  wives  of  the  harem.  The  ladies  informed  me 
that  such  politeness  and  perfect  decorum  are  seldom 
met  with.  I  think  they  were  disappointed  (perhaps 
agreeably)  that  they  did  not  see  something  of  the  sen- 
sational. While  outside,  awaiting  the  ladies'  coming,  a 
son  of  the  Pacha  saw  me  and  sent  a  messenger  asking 
me  to  step  inside,  which  I  gladly  accepted.  This  son, 
a  young  man  of  about  twenty-one  years  of  age,  was 
dressed  in  a  fine  English  suit,  and  was  very  cordial. 
While  he  did  not  speak  English,  or  1  French,  or  Turk- 
ish, I  had  my  dragoman  act  as  interpreter  for  us.  The 
young  Turk  escorted  me  to  the  studio,  where  he 
showed  me  several  of  his  father's  oil  paintings  that 
would  compare  favorably  with  those  of  celebrated 
artists.  He  informed  me  that  his  father  was  very  fond 
of  painting  and  spent  a  good  deal  of  time  in  his  studio. 
Although  I  was  not  introduced  to  any  of  his  twenty- 
five  mothers  or  his  father's  wives,  I  was  well  entertained 
and  greatly  admired  the  beautiful  paintings,  decorations 
and  ornaments  that  were  in  the  rooms  I  visited.  The 
following  day  the  Pacha  called  at  the  hotel,  but,  as  the 
ladies  were  out,  he  left  his  card,  which  read  as  follows: 


Le  General  Ue  Division 

AHMED  ALY  PACHA, 

Aide-de-camp  de  S.  M.  T.  le  Sultan. 

Stamboul. 


WOMEN  OF  CONSTANTINOPLE. 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  8l 

It  was  certainly  very  polite  and  quite  unexpected 
that  he  should  have  returned  their  call.  The  ladies 
regret  that  they  did  not  meet  him,  but  say  that  if  he  is 
as  nice  as  his  son  (whom  they  also  met)  he  must  be 
very  nice  indeed.  The  Sultan's  harem  has  upward  of 
one  hundred  wives,  and  only  women  of  nobility  can 
get  invitations  to  visit  them.  Men  can  see  the  outside, 
only,  which  is  of  immense  size  and  beautifully  situated. 

Just  before  our  departure  from  Constantinople,  the 
Sultan  sent  to  our  ship  two  large  chests,  one  of  cigar- 
ettes and  one  of  candy,  with  the  request  that  the 
captain  should  give  to  each  passenger  a  box  of  cigar- 
ettes and  candy  with  his  compliments.  They  were 
duly  distributed  and  greatly  appreciated  by  our  pas- 
sengers, who  will  have  them  to  show  to  their  friends  at 
home  as  souvenirs  from  the  great  mogul,  the  Sultan  of 
Turkey.  He  is  but  a  man  after  all,  and  less  notable 
men  know  how  to  captivate  the  fair  sex  with  candy 
and  taffy.  I  will  add,  the  candy,  for  which  the  Turks 
are  celebrated,  is  very  fine.  The  cigarettes  are  the 
finest  I  ever  smoked,  although  I  am  not  much  of  a 
cigarettist  and  perhaps  not  competent  to  judge  them. 

The  Turks,  as  a  whole,  are  to  be  admired  for  their 
ingenuity,  industry  and  law-abiding  qualities.  In  none 
of  these  Oriental  cities  have  we  seen  dissipation, 
drunkenness  or  disorderly  conduct.  True,  the  common 
people  look  dirty  and  even  filthy,  but  still  they  look 


82  A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 

well-fed  and  in  the  enjoyment  of  health  and  content- 
ment. The  Turks  are  of  good  size,  and  the  upper 
classes  clean,  intelligent  and  well  dressed.  The  red 
fez  hat  they  all  wear,  and  in  looking  at  the  throngs  of 
men  and  their  blazing  caps,  it  is  a  sight  never  to  be  for- 
gotten. Not  less  observable  is  the  string  of  beads  that 
all  carry  in  their  hands  when  not  engaged  in  business. 
We  made  several  trips  to  the  famous  bazaars,  where 
we  made  some  purchases  and  did  a  great  deal  of  sight- 
seeing. Goods  can  be  bought  there  very  cheaply  if 
you  know  how  to  treat  with  the  shop-keepers.  They  will 
ask  two,  three  or  four  times  more  than  they  will  accept 
rather  than  lose  a  sale,  and  a  buyer  must  be  on  his 
guard  both  as  to  price  and  quality.  These  bazaars 
contain  innumerable  shops  where  all  the  different 
trades  are  carried  on,  and  almost  everything  useful  or 
ornamental  may  be  purchased.  The  endless  rows  of 
stalls  along  each  side  of  the  covered  streets,  where 
articles  are  manufactured  as  well  as  sold,  present  a 
constant  succession  of  novel  scenes,  and  the  motley 
panorama  it  commands  is  of  absorbing  interest. 
These  streets  are  so  narrow  that  not  even  donkeys  are 
allowed  in  them.  Large  cases  of  goods  are  taken 
there  by  one,  two  or  four  men,  who  have  long  poles  on 
their  shoulders  with  the  packages  attached  thereto. 
To  protect  their  backs  and  shoulders  they  have  a  pad- 
ded saddle.     In  one  case  we  saw  a  man  with  a  large 


A   CRUISE    ON   THIC    MEDITERRANEAN.  83 

slab  of  marble  so  heavy  he  could  scarcely  move.  He 
was  so  stooped  that  he  could  not  look  up,  and  an 
attendant  was  with  him  to  clear  and  guide  his  way. 
In  our  travels  about  the  city  we  saw  but  one  building 
in  course  of  construction  and  but  one  building  that  had 
been  burned,  and  that  was  left  intact  except  for  broken 
windows.  We  observed  that  insurance  companies 
(mostly  English)  have  branch  offices  in  all  these  Ori- 
ental cities,  and,  unless  rates  are  very,  very  low,  they 
must  find  the  business  profitable.  A  fire  is  such  an 
unusual  event  that  risks  are  small  indeed.  Besides,  the 
buildings  are  strictly  fireproof,  very  little  wood  being 
used  in  their  construction.  As  there  is  some  cholera 
still  in  Constantinople,  and  as  Malta  is  quarantined 
against  her,  we  shall  not  make  that  interesting  city,  as 
provided  for  in  our  itinerary.  Our  next  point  of  inter- 
est will  be  Messina,  then  Palermo  to  Naples. 


No.  X. 

PALERMO  AND  MESSINA. 

Palermo,  March  20,  1894. 
We  are  in  charming  Palermo,  where  we  arrived  on 
the  i8th  inst.  Leaving  Constantinople  Thursday  after- 
noon, we  had  good  weather  to  Messina,  where  we  ar- 
rived early  Sunday  morning.  Not  being  quarantined, 
we  were  soon  on  shore,  where  we  found  a  very  interest- 
ing city  of  125,000  inhabitants. 


84 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 


Most  of  the  Streets  are  broad  and  the  buildings  fine 
and  commanding.  The  streets  are  paved  with  large 
blocks  of  lava  stone,  very  perfect, 
and  are  kept  very  clean.  The  harbor 
is  one  of  the  best  in  the  world,  not 
large,  but  perfectly  protected  from 
storms.  The  water  in  the  bay  is 
extremely  deep,  and  we  anchored 
near  the  shore. 

The  harbor  was  well  represented 
with  ships  and  other  craft,  several  of 
which  were  being  loaded  with  oranges 
and  lemons  for  New  York  and  other 
foreign  ports.  The  production  of 
these  fruits  in  Sicily  is  very  large.  The  streets  were 
full  of  trucks  and  carts  loaded  with  fruits  that  were 
about  to  be  shipped.  Oxen  of  good  size  were  hauling 
big  loads  of   them  on  small  and  inferior  trucks. 

Of  carts  we  saw  a  great  variety,  some  of  which  were 
painted  and  decorated  most  gorgeously.  To  these 
were  hitched  good-sized  mules.  On  the  boulevard  we 
saw  very  handsome  turnouts,  and  a  good  many  of 
them.  The  horses  were  fine  coachers,  and  the  entire 
outfit  equal  to  those  of  Paris  and  London.  There  are 
many  rich  residents,  who  have  beautiful  homes  and 
keep  apace  with  the  living  and  fashions  of  the  larger 
European  cities. 


AT   PALEKMO. 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE   MEDITERRANEAN. 


85 


It  was  our  good  fortune  to  have  been  at  Messina  at 
the  time  of  the  general  review  of  the  army.  It  was  but 
a  short  drive  to  the  fort,  which  is  connected  with  the 
large  parade  grounds.  We  estimated  the  division  of 
the  army,  which  we  saw,  to  have  been  about  20,000. 
The  commanding  general  and  his  staff  were  mounted 

on  fine,  large  horses, 
and  their  uniforms 
were  rich  and  gor- 
geous. All  the  ofifi- 
cers  were  large,  fine- 
looking  men.  The 
soldiers  of  the  ranks 
averaged    smaller, 

CONVEYANCE  AT  MESSINA.  but       they     WCTC     WCll 

uniformed  and  well  drilled.  There  were  two  full  bands 
of  music,  besides  the  buglers.  One  of  these  bands  is 
quite  celebrated,  and  later  we  heard  them  play  in  the 
park,  and  are  of  the  opinion  that  they  are  equal  to 
their  reputation. 

The  view  from  the  harbor  of  the  city,  with  its 
villas  extending  far  up  the  hill,  or  mountain  side,  is 
very  fine.  The  orange  and  lemon  groves  extend  to 
the  very  top,  and  at  this  season  of  the  year,  with 
their  fresh  green  foliage  reaching  in  all  directions, 
as  far  as  we  could  see,  make  the  view  one  of  great 
beauty. 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  87 

The  Island  of  Sicily  has  a  most  delightful  climate, 
and  we  found  it  at  its  best,  being  much  more  soft  and 
mild  than  any  of  the  former  places  we  had  visited. 
We  visited  the  cathedral,  built  in  the  eleventh  century, 
where  we  saw  the  Cardinal  march  to  the  altar,  escorted 
by  the  choir  boys  and  priests.  He  was  attended  with 
great  pomp  and  much  ceremony.  It  was  all  show,  as 
not  a  word  was  uttered  that  we  could  hear.  There  was 
a  large  congregation  coming  and  going  all  the  time, 
who  seemed  to  be  devout  and  as  well  satisfied  as 
though  they  had  heard  a  good  sermon  that  requires 
brains  and  effort.  There  being  nothing  in  Messina 
of  especial  interest,  outside  of  a  beautiful  city,  we  were 
quite  ready  to  leave  for  Palermo  after  the  few  hours 
so  pleasantly  spent. 

A  night's  run  brought  us  to  Palerrno,  the  military, 
judicial  and  ecclesiastical  capital  of  the  island,  with  a 
population  of  nearly  a  quarter  of  a  million.  The  ap- 
proach from  the  sea  is  magnificent,  the  situation  is 
charming  and  the  surrounding  hills  and  valleys  exquis- 
itely fresh  and  green.  Here,  also,  are  grown  great 
quantities  of  oranges  and  lemons,  but  the  quality  is  in- 
ferior to  those  of  Messina  and  Algiers. 

Aside  from  a  large,  clean  and  flourishing  city,  there 
is  nothing  here  of  especial  interest  to  mention.  The 
streets  are  broad  and  well  paved,  the  buildings  large 
and    attractive  and   the    shops    very   extensive.     The 


88  A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 

appearance  of  the  stores,  streets  and  buildings  is  quite 
like  those  seen  in  the  best  parts  of  Paris.  The  church 
at  Monreale  is  very  fine;  the  cathedral  is  large,  and 
contains  much  that  is  beautiful  and  elegant.  As  it  is 
necessary  to  see  these  churches  to  appreciate  them, 
and  as  the  description  of  one  is  so  nearly  like  others, 
it  is  unnecessary  to  enter  into  further  detail  of  them. 
We  were  shown  through  the  Royal  Palace,  which  is 
very  large  and  occupies  a  commanding  view. 

The  church  connected  therewith  is  small,  but  is  most 
beautifully  decorated  in  mosaics,  representing  large 
paintings  of  historic  order.  The  King  resides  in  Rome 
and  seldom  visits  or  occupies  this  palace. 

Here,  as  in  Messina,  one  of  the  most  common  and 
conspicuous  sights  is  the  macaroni  that  is  hung  out  to 
dry.  Strung  over  poles,  it  is  to  be  seen  over  the  side- 
w^alks  and  in  the  alleys  in  all  directions.  One  glance 
into  the  interior  of  these  shops  was  enough.  Had  we 
penetrated  farther,  I  doubt  if  we  could  have  retained 
our  appetites  for  macaroni. 

The  harbor  is  large,  but  not  naturally  good,  and  we 
had  to  anchor  a  long  way  from  shore.  Perhaps  it 
seemed  longer  than  it  was,  as  we  were  caught  in  a 
drenching  rain  in  open  boats.  The  twelve  hours  spent 
here  were  enough,  and  we  were  glad  to  be  off  for 
Naples,  where  we  expect  to  get  our  papers  and  letters. 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  89 

No.  XI. 

NAPLES  AND  POMPEII. 

Naples,  March  22,  1894. 

Arriving  at  Naples  in  the  early  morning,  we  first 
saw  Vesuvius  from  the  port-holes  of  our  cabins.  There 
the  mountain  stood  as  we  had  so  often  seen  it  pictured. 
Not  so  far  as  the  crow  flies,  but  to  get  to  the  top  re- 
quires a  trip  of  several  hours,  by  carriage,  up  a  steady 
incline  to  within  half  a  mile  of  the  crater,  where  a  rail- 
road takes  passengers  to  the  summit.  Looking  upward 
and  onward,  we  had  at  all  times  a  view  of  the  smoking 
volcano,  which  for  quantity  and  quality  resembled  the 
smoke  of  some  of  the  tugboats  in  our  Chicago  River. 
Looking  to  the  side  and  backward  was  the  beautiful 
bay  of  Naples,  its  islands  and  cities  in  plain  view,  and 
such  a  broad  and  commanding  view  we  believe  cannot 
be  equaled  in  any  other  part  of  the  world. 

To  gain  a  distinct  conception  of  the  aspect  of  the 
hill,  first,  a  sloping  plain,  three  miles  long  and  three 
miles  broad,  stretching  up  a  pretty  rapid  ascent  to  an 
elevation  of  more  than  2,000  feet,  very  rugged  in  the 
surface  and  covered  everywhere  with  black,  burnt 
stones,  like  the  scoriae  of  an  iron  furnace ;  second,  at 
the  head  of  this  plain,  and  towering  over  it,  a  cone  of 
the  same  black,  burnt  stones,  with  sides  remarkably 
straight  and  uniform,  shooting  up  in  the  blue  sky  to  a 
further  elevation  of  1,500  feet;  third,  behind  this  cone 


A    CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  9I 

a  lofty,  circular  precipice,  1,400  feet  hi^jh  and  three 
miles  long,  standing  like  a  vast  wall,  and  of  the  same 
burnt  appearance. 

We  left  Portici  by  carriage,  ascending  gradually 
among  cultivated  fields  and  vineyards,  occasionally 
traversed  by  streams  of  old  lava,  black,  rough  and 
sterile,  and  in  about  two  hours  reached  the  Hermitage, 
a  convent  where  a  few  monks  keep  a  sort  of  inn  for  the 
visitors  of  Vesuvius.  Farther  up  we  traversed  large 
fields  of  lava,  extremely  rough,  and  at  the  base  of  the 
cone  left  our  carriages  and  took  the  cable  railroad  for 
the  summit,  a  distance  of  about  half  a  mile.  The  cone 
is  a  mass  of  crumbling,  black  cinders  and  extremely 
steep,  forming  an  angle  of  45°.  From  the  terminal 
of  the  railroad  landing  it  is  but  a  few  minutes'  walk  to 
where  we  found  ourselves  on  extremely  hot  ground, 
intolerable  to  the  hand  and  fatal  to  the  soles  of  our 
shoes.  It  teemed  with  hot  vapor,  and  was  covered  with 
beautiful  effervescences  of  sulphur.  Steam  issued  from 
numerous  crevices,  at  the  entrance  of  which  a  piece  of 
paper  took  fire  in  a  few  seconds.  While  making  our 
way  to  the  mouth  of  the  crater,  we  distinctly  heard  the 
explosions  and  the  rumbling  sound,  as  of  the  firing  of 
cannon  in  the  distance.  Following  one  of  these  explo- 
sions, more  severe  than  others,  we  saw  rising  far  above 
us  hot  lava  in  large  volume,  which,  in  descending,  fell 
not  more  than  fifty  feet  from  where  we  stood.     Our 


92  A  CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 

guides  were  alarmed,  and  retreated  with  us  on  the  run. 
We  insisted  upon  getting  where  we  could  look  into 
the  fiery  furnace,  and  by  approaching  it  in  another 
direction,  and  opposite  the  wind,  we  got  a  view  and  a 
shock  we  can  never  forget.  As  we  stood  at  the  mouth 
of  the  crater,  we  could  hear  the  explosions  much  more 
distinctly,  and  in  plain  view,  far  below  and  beyond,  we 
could  see  the  fiery  flames  leaping  upward  in  terrible 
confusion.  The  sight  was  appalling,  and  we  were  glad 
to  retreat  to  safer  quarters.  Our  guide  secured  for  us 
a  piece  of  the  falling  hot  lava  or  stone,  which  we  shall 
keep  as  a  souvenir  of  our  visit  to  the  hell  on  earth,  i.  e. 
Vesuvius.  For  a  more  vivid  and  awful  description 
of  Vesuvius  we  will  refer  you  to  the  old-school  Meth- 
odist sermons  on  hell,  such  as  we  heard  in  our  younger 
days  in  the  good  old  state  of  Vermont. 

From  our  guides  and  others  we  were  informed  that 
"  Old  Vesuvey  "  was  in  especially  bad  humor  on  the  day 
of  our  visit,  and  had  not  been  cutting  up  and  throwing 
up  so  badly  for  a  year  or  more  past.  It  is  only  a  question 
of  time  when  there  will  be  another  big  upheaval  or 
eruption  that  may  possibly  extend  to  and  partially  bury 
Naples  in  ruins. 

Our  visit  to  Pompeii,  an  hour's  ride  by  rail  from 
Naples,  was  very  interesting.  It  has  the  reputation  of  be- 
ing the  most  wonderful  of  the  antiquities  of  Italy.  The 
impression  it  gives  of  the  actual  presence  of  a  Roman 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  93 

town  in  all  the  circumstantial  reality  of  its  existence, 
2,000  years  ago,  is  so  vivid  and  intense  that  it  requires 
but  a  small  effort  of  the  imagination  to  place  yourself 
among  the  multitudes  which  once  thronged  its  streets 
and  theatres,  and  occupied  its  now  voiceless  chambers. 
You  see  a  street  before  you  carefully  paved  and  well 
worn.  The  houses  extend  in  unbroken  lines.  The 
doors  and  windows  are  all  open,  and  the  tints  of  the 
walls  are  not  very  different  from  what  are  seen  in  the 
decayed  towns  of  the  same  country  at  the  present  day. 
You  turn  to  the  right  and  to  the  left  and  wander  from 
street  to  street,  and  still  you  have  the  perfect  image  of 
a  town  before  you,  except  that  no  inhabitants  appear. 
Here  we  saw  a  Roman  forum,  with  all  its  accompani- 
ment of  temples,  porticoes,  etc.,  also  many  shops  and 
private  houses  of  all  descriptions.  While  the  bases  of 
these  buildings  are  well-nigh  perfect,  the  height  varies 
from  three  to  ten  feet,  and' that  which  is  remaining  is  in 
a  good  state  of  preservation.  Almost  everything  found 
at  Pompeii,  including  the  beautiful  statues  of  1882,  is 
exhibited  at  the  National  Museum  in  Naples.  The 
early  history  of  Pompeii  is  enveloped  in  obscurity.  It 
fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Sammites  about  the  year  440 
B.  c,  and  was  taken  by  the  Romans  about  eighty  years 
later.  It  was  visited  by  an  earthquake  a.  d.  63,  which 
caused  great  destruction.  It  was  afterwards  over- 
whelmed, in  A.  D.  79,  by  the  eruption  of  Vesuvius,  and 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  95 

continued  to  be  buried  under  the  ashes  and  other  vol- 
canic matter  for  about  1,700  years.  The  discovery  of 
the  buried  city  was  made  while  constructing  an 
aqueduct  to  Torre,  and  since  1755  the  work  of 
excavation  has  been  pretty  constantly  prosecuted. 
Herculaneum  was  also  destroyed  in  a.  d.  79,  and  with 
subsequent  eruptions  was  buried  under  ashes  and  lava 
to  a  depth  of  seventy  to  one  hundred  feet. 

Charming  Naples,  with  its  beautiful  bay,  we  shall 
call  the  Queen  of  the  Mediterranean.  It  is  the  most 
populous  city  in  Italy,  and  is  visited  by  tourists  in 
great  numbers  from  all  parts  of  the  world.  It  lies  at 
the  base  and  on  the  slopes  of  several  slight  hills,  rising 
from  the  sea  in  amphitheatre-like  form.  The  streets 
are  generally  of  good  width  and  well  paved.  The 
buildings  are  of  gray  sandstone  and  are  mostly  of  fine 
appearance.  The  shops  are  very  attractive,  and  prices 
quite  reasonable. 

We  made  a  delightful  excursion  by  steamer  to  the 
island  of  Capri,  where  we  saw  the  Blue  Grotto.  Leav- 
ing the  steamer,  we  were  taken  in  small  row-boats  into 
the  cave.  The  entrance  is  only  about  three  feet  high, 
and  just  wide  enough  to  let  the  boats  pass  through. 
Visitors  have  to  lie  on  their  backs  while  passing  into 
the  grotto.  The  basin  is  100  feet  wide  and  150 
feet  long,  and  the  height  from  the  water  to  the 
rock    above    varies    from    five    to     twenty- five     feet. 


g6  A  CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 

The  blue  water  of  the  Mediterranean,  in  the  ab- 
sence of  sunlight,  is  here  so  reflected  that  the  deep- 
est shade  of  blue  is  most  beautiful  to  the  eye.  From 
Capri  we  continued  on  the  steamer  to  Sorrento,  where 
we  took  carriages  for  Castellamare,  thence  by  rail  to 
Naples.  Sorrento  is  a  charming  place,  situated  among 
luxuriant  lemon  and  orange  gardens,  on  rocks  rising 
precipitously  from  the  sea.  Nearly  all  the  orange  and 
lemon  trees  were  covered  for  the  purpose  of  keeping 
the  fruit  from  early  ripening  in  the  sun.  By  so  doing 
the  ripening  is  delayed,  and  higher  prices  are  obtained. 
The  carriage  drive  from  Sorrento  to  Castellamare, 
over  a  perfect  road  and  along  the  mountain  side  far 
above  the  sea,  was  very  enjoyable.  Having  made  our 
arrangements  for  spending  a  week  in  Rome  prior  to 
our  departure  for  home,  you  may  expect  to  hear  from 
us  again. 


No.  XII. 

THE  "ETERNAL  CITY." 

Rome,  March  30,  1894. 
Our  trip  is  nearly  over.  As  promised  in  my  last 
letter,  we  will  undertake  to  give  you  a  bird's-eye  view  of 
Rome.  To  do  it  justice  would  require  volumes,  but 
to  many  Americans  its  history  is  familiar.  From 
Naples  to  Rome,  by  rail,  the  time  is  about  five  hours. 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  97 

Nearly  all  the  way  the  road  follows  the  valley,  which  is 
very  fertile  and  abounds  in  vineyards  and  walnut  trees. 
A  greater  part  of  the  distance  we  were  close  by  and  in 
sight  of  the  mountains,  which  are  still  mantled  in  snow. 
The  service  on  the  railroad  is  good,  but  the  cars  are  of 
the  small  compartment  class  that  are  in  use  throughout 
England  and  the  continent.  No  baggage  is  carried 
free  and  no  checks  are  issued  for  it.  This  obliges  all 
travelers  who  have  baggage  to  see  that  it  is  put  on 
board  when  starting,  and  to  be  on  hand  to  receive  it  at 
its  destination.  The  charges  for  baggage  are  excessive 
and  the  fees  required  to  be  paid  to  the  various  porters 
are  nuisances.  A  relay  of  not  less  than  three  sets  of 
porters  is  necessary  to  get  the  baggage  on,  and  the 
same  off.  The  fees  are  not  large,  but  are  essential  for 
everything  and  everywhere.  To  have  a  supply  equal  to 
the  demand  we  devoted  one  pocket  to  a  copper  mine, 
which  had  to  be  replenished  very  often.  Thei^iome  of 
to-day  is  a  beautiful  modern  city,  its  buildings  are  large 
and  the  streets  mostly  wide  and  all  well  paved.  The 
hotels  are  numerous  and  some  of  them  very  elegant, 
but  we  found  them  all  full,  and  had  some  difficulty  in 
getting  even  a  sheltering  place.  However,  after  the 
first  day,  we  managed  to  get  into  fairly  comfortable 
quarters.  Tourists  from  all  parts  of  the  world  are  here, 
and  a  medical  convention  is  being  held  that  numbers 
some  five   thousand    doctors,   which    makes   an   extra 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  99 

demand  for  hotel  accommodations.  The  old  part  of 
Rome,  which  has  the  relics  of  antiquity,  now  represents 
but  a  small  part  of  the  present  city.  This  is,  however, 
colossal  and  rich  in  historic  interest.  Our  first  day  was 
devoted  to  driving  about  the  city,  getting  the  lay  of  the 
land  and  seeing  from  the  outside.  Rome,  known  in 
antiquity  as  the  "  Eternal  City,"  once  the  capital  of  the 
ancient  world,  afterwards  of  the  spiritual  Empire  of  the 
Popes,  and  since  a.  d.  1871,  the  capital  of  the  Kingdom 
of  Italy,  now  has  a  population  of  about  450,000  inhab- 
itants, about  one  quarter  of  what  it  was  when  Rome 
was  in  its  glory  during  the  Imperial  epoch.  Our  first 
visit  to  the  Church  of  St.  Peter's  was  early  Sunday 
morning,  where  we  witnessed  the  morning  service  and 
saw  the  throngs  of  spectators  and  worshipers,  number- 
ing thousands,  but  owing  to  its  immense  size  it  was  not 
at  all  crowded.  This  is  the  largest,  if  not  the  most 
magnificent  church  in  the  world;  its  area  is  18,000  square 
yards,  while  the  Cathedral  of  Milan  is  only  10,000. 

Owing  to  its  interior  construction  it  does  not  look 
as  large  as  it  is.  Its  exterior  is  not  nearly  as  sightly  as 
the  Cathedral  of  Milan,  still  the  view  from  the  distance 
and  the  near  approach  to  it  is  very  grand  and  imposing. 
To  the  right  and  adjoining  it  is  the  Vatican,  the  largest 
palace  in  the  world,  a  part  of  which  is  occupied  by  the 
Pope,  who  poses  as  a  prisoner  and  seldom  leaves  it.  It 
has  twenty  courts  and  is  said  to  comprise  11,000  halls, 


lOO  A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 

chapels  and  private  rooms,  the  greater  part  of  which  are 
devoted  to  the  museum,  in  which  are  shown  celebrated 
ancient  paintings,  sculpture,  etc.  The  Sistine  chapel 
contained  therein  is  the  only  place  of  worship  that  the 
Pope  visits.  The  biblical  paintings  by  Raphael  and 
Michael  Angelo  are  the  perfection  of  art  and  the  ad- 
miration of  the  world. 

The  interior  of  St.  Peter's  contains  the  most  cel- 
ebrated sculpture,  paintings  and  mosaics ;  and  the 
view  of  the  dome,  over  three  hundred  feet  in  height,  is 
seen  to  the  best  advantage  from  within.  The  sitting 
statue  of  St.  Peter,  in  bronze,  on  a  throne  of  white 
marble  beneath  a  canopy,  above  which  is  a  mosaic 
portrait  of  Pius  XII.,  attracts  great  attention.  The 
right  foot  of  St.  Peter  is  almost  worn  away  by  the  kisses 
of  devotees,  of  whom  we  saw  a  constant  procession  of 
men,  women  and  children  of  the  peasant  class  press  it 
with  their  lips  and  wipe  it  with  their  hands  or  their 
sleeves.  We  saw  none  of  the  priests  or  better  classes 
doing  this,  which  to  us  seemed  a  little  strange.  We 
visited  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Paul,  located  about  two 
miles  outside  of  the  gates,  and  we  pronounce  it  the 
perfection  of  art,  elegance  and  architecture.  It  stands 
the  most  gorgeous  monument  of  Catholic  devotion  the 
world  can  show.  Under  its  high  altar  lie  the  remains 
(according  to  church  authorities)  of  SS.  Peter  and  Paul. 
Nothing  could  be  more  beautiful  than  this  edifice,  with 


A    CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 


'-^^i' 


its  magnificent  nave  and  aisles,  its  roof  so  exquisitely 
carved,  its  granite  columns,  eighty  in  number,  of  the 
Corinthian  order.  The  high  altar,  standing  under  a 
canopy  supported  by  four  columns  of  white  alabaster, 
was  presented  by  Mohammed  Ali  to  Gregory  XVI.  The 
portraits  of  the  Popes  in  mosaic,  some  264  in  number, 
are  very  fine  and  conspicuous. 

The  Forum 
Romanum  and 
the  adjacent 
ruins,  covering 
a  space  of  sev- 
eral acres,  rep- 
resent the  most 
marvelous  col- 
Tiih  hukUM.  ROME.  lection    of   the 

remains  of  antiquity.  From  the  Cloaca  Maxima  and 
the  Marmertine  Prison,  the  work  of  early  kings,  built 
nearly  twenty-five  centuries  ago,  down  to  the  Basilica 
of  Constantine,  we  see  an  almost  complete  series  of  the 
ruins  of  the  buildings  of  all  epochs,  the  Forum  itself 
lying  in  the  valley  between  the  Palatine  and  Capitoline 
hills,  being  the  nucleus,  as  if  Rome  grouped  all  her  most 
glorious  works  around  the  cradle  of  power — the  place 
of  popular  assemblies.  A  number  of  columns  and  arches 
are  still  standing  that  show  the  outlines  of  the  Temple 
of  Concord,  Temple  of  Vespasian  and  Saturn,  the  Arch 


102  A    CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 

of  Septimius  Severus,  Column  of  Phocas  and  the  huge 
ruins  of  the  Palace  of  the  Caesars.  Several  other  relics, 
marking  historic  sites  upon  these  ancient  grounds, 
were  pointed  out  to  us,  and  we  fully  appreciated 
the  opportunity  of  being  upon  the  grounds  made 
famous  by  the  early  Roman  fathers.  The  history  of 
Rome — its  rise  and  fall — teaches  a  lesson  that  should 
not  be  overlooked  by  our  government  and  our  people. 
Great  wealth,  fame  and  honor  can  only  be  sustained  by 
honorable  and  conservative  methods.  Consciousness 
of  great  power  and  liberties,  with  the  lack  of  eternal 
vigilance,  is  the  stumbling  block  of  nations,  as  well  as 
individuals.  Success  is  reached  by  heroic  efforts,  self- 
denial  and  many  hardships.  The  danger  points  are 
greatest  at  the  heights  of  success,  when,  for  lack  of 
discretion  and  watchfulness,  extravagance  and  dissipa- 
tion lead  to  downfall  and  ruin.  Such  was  the  history 
of  early  Rome.  History  repeats  itself,  and  Italy  should 
profit  by  its  early  history  of  Rome.  The  socialistic 
and  republican  elements  are  making  very  little  head- 
way, and  the  government  is  curtailing  expenditures  to 
lessen  the  excessive  taxation  that  has  become  so  bur- 
densome to  its  people. 

The  Flavian  amphitheater,  known  as  the  Colosseum, 
is  an  immense  structure,  and  part  of  the  outer  walls 
remain  intact,  except  for  the  wear  and  tear,  and  wars  in 
ages  past. 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 


103 


This  greatest  of  antique  structures,  built  in  honor  of 
Titus,  and  on  which  it  is  said  60,000  Jews  were  engaged 
ten  years,  is  said  to  have  given  seats  to  87,000  specta- 
tors and  was  inaugurated  a.  d.  81,  on  which  occasion 
5,000  wild  animals  and  10,000  captives  were  slain.  The 
inauguration  lasted  one  hundred  days.  The  circumfer- 
ence of  the  building 
is  1,641  feet;  height 
of  the  outer  wall,  157 
feet;  the  length  of 
the  arena,  278  feet,- 
and  width  177  feet, 
covering  a  space  of 
COLOSSEUM,  ROMK.  six  acrcs. 

Our  first  visit  was  by  daylight,  when  we  obtained  a 
good  idea  of  its  size  and  former  beauty;  our  next  by 
night,  when  we  saw  it  illuminated  with  Bengal-lights 
and  other  fireworks.  Thousands  of  people  were  present 
and  the  view  was  grand  indeed.  There  are  three  styles 
of  architecture — Doric,  Ionic  and  Corinthian.  On  each 
tier  were  differently  colored  lights,  and  the  effect  was 
beautiful  and  gave  us  a  good  idea  of  its  enormous  size 
and  beauty,  as  in  its  former  palmy  days.  The  walls  are 
very  solid  and  of  immense  thickness,  and  that  which  is 
now  remaining  will  no  doubt  remain  for  all  time  to  come. 
The  Baths  of  Caracalla  cover  a  large  space  and 
their  magnitude  is  far  greater  than   anything  of  the 


104 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 


kind  that  has  been  produced  in  modern  days.  The 
walls  are  very  thick  and  are  in  some  parts  as  orig- 
inally erected.  Here  we  saw  the  dressing  rooms,  sweat 
baths  and  plunging  pools,  constructed  much  like  those 
now  in  use,  but  so  much  larger  that  by  comparison  it 
is  like  an  elephant  beside  a  mouse.  No  doubt  the 
ancient  Romans  found  great  pleasure  and  health  in 
their  extensive 
baths,  which  the 
present  genera- 
tion has  neglect- 
ed to  provide. 
Pure  water  in 
abundance  is 
brought  from 
the  mountains, 

some      thirty  interior  colosseum,  rome. 

miles  away,  in  aqueducts,  and  public  fountains  are 
numerous,  some  of  which  are  very  fine,  but  mostly 
ancient. 

The  Pantheon,  the  best  preserved  of  all  the  old 
churches,  contains  the  resting  place  of  Raphael,  marked 
by  an  inscription  in  the  wall.  A  fine  statue  of  the  Ma- 
donna was  his  gift,  executed  by  Lorenzo  Lotto.  R&me 
abounds  in  churches,  ancient  and  modern,  all  of  which 
contain  something  of  historic  interest,  but  for  lack  of 
time  we  could  visit  but  the  few  mentioned. 


A   CRUISK   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  I05 

We  visited  the  catacombs  outside  of  the  city,  via. 
Apia,  but  they  were  not  particularly  interesting.  They 
are  in  charge  of  monks,  who  for  a  fee  and  with  candles 
descend  into  mother  earth,  where  rest  the  bones  of 
saints,  and  probably  sinners,  in  great  numbers.  A  small 
chapel  where  the  Christians  worshiped  and  rooms 
where  they  lived,  alongside  and  connecting  with  the 
tombs  of  the  dead,  gave  us  the  impression  that  the 
dead  were  better  off  than  had  been  the  living.  Beneath 
one  of  the  churches  in  Rome  we  saw  the  skulls  and 
bones  of  departed  monks  by  the  cord;  also  the  mummy 
forms  laid  out  in  their  former  costumes,  around  which 
was  earth  brought  from  Jerusalem  (where  soil  is  very 
scarce  and  must  come  high). 

The  Pincio  is  a  small  but  charming  little  park,  from 
which  a  beautiful  view  of  the  city  is  obtained.  It 
abounds  in  statuary,  and  in  its  approach  from  the  west, 
as  you  ascend  the  mountain,  some  of  the  monuments 
are  very  large  and  impressive.  The  queen  is  supposed 
to  drive  in  the  park  every  afternoon,  but  we  failed 
to  see  her. 

However,  we  saw  the  king.  Sunday  afternoon  we 
drove  out  of  the  city  on  the  road  to  the  race  course, 
where  racing  was  held,  and  the  king  was  present. 
Pulling  out  to  the  roadside  we  awaited  his  coming,  and 
soon  we  saw  him,  a  live  king  and  a  fine-looking  man. 
Notwithstanding  the  cold,  raw  wind  he  kept  his  hat  in 


Io6  A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 

his  hand  and  continually  bowed  to  the  people,  who 
were  massed  along  the  roadside  to  get  a  look  at  him. 
He  was  unaccompanied  by  military  escort,  and  but  for 
the  ovation  paid  him  by  the  people  we  would  not  have 
known  him  from  the  other  well-dressed  gentlemen  who 
had  taken  in  the  races  and  were  returning  to  the  city. 
The  king  is  very  popular  with  the  soldiers  and  the 
upper  classes,  and  but  for  the  extravagance  of  his  father 
prior  to  his  accession  to  the  throne,  the  present  govern- 
ment would  be  on  a  much  better  financial  basis.  He 
has  been  scrupulously  honorable  in  money  matters,  not 
only  relinquishing  a  third  of  his  civil  list  to  the 
treasury,  with  the  object  of  lightening  the  burden  of 
taxation  on  his  subjects,  but  making  a  point  of  paying 
every  dollar  of  the  enormous  personal  debts  left  by  his 
father,  debts  which  the  national  legislature  offered  to 
pay  out  of  the  public  exchequer,  but  which  King  Hum- 
bert insisted  upon  assuming  charge  of  himself. 

Under  the  system  inaugurated  by  him  of  having  the 
soldiers  taught  to  read  and  write,  while  in  the  service, 
the  intelligence  of  the  illiterate  masses  is  on  the  gain, 
and  it  is  estimated  now  that  fifty  per  cent  of  the  popu- 
lation have  that  accomplishment,  while  a  few  years 
ago  only  ten  per  cent,  of  the  mountaineers  or  peasants 
could  read  or  write.  However,  a  greater  gain  of 
intelligence  must  be  had  before  a  republican  form  of 
government  would  be  practicable.     This  is  the  worst 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  I07 

feature  that  our  government  has  to  contend  with  and 
threatens  us  with  great  harm — the  franchise  or  elective 
power  of  the  ignorant  and  foreign-born  population, 
who  are  influenced  by  designing  politicians  to  become 
citizens  for  party  power. 

Enough  of  this — but  of  Rome,  with  its  wonders  of 
the  past  and  its  beauties  as  at  present!  We  feel  that 
we  are  going  to  leave  too  soon,  and  yet  we  shall  be 
glad  to  get  home. 

Our  trip  has  been  fairly  enjoyable  if  not  profitable. 
We  have  kept  well  and  have  been  very  busy.  Our  heads 
are  full  of  the  strange  and  interesting  things  we  have 
seen.  It  is  somewhat  like  a  dream,  but  the  stern  reality 
comes  in  when  we  look  at  our  bank  balance.  The  trip 
has  been  as  easy  as  we  could  make  it,  but  many  discom- 
forts and  hardships  have  been  endured.  The  bitter 
with  the  sweet  must  be  taken  all  through  life,  and  in 
the  end  we  are  weighed  in  the  balance,  and,  as  is  too 
often  the  case,  we  are  found  wanting. 
Yours  truly, 


APPENDIX 


OUR    LIST   OF   PASSENGERS 

(NOT  INCLUDING  THOSE  WHO  JOINED  US  AT  GENOA.) 

Mr.  H.  O.  Armour  (and  man  servant) New  York 

Mrs.  Armour New  York 

Mr.  W.  P.  Allen Cloquet,  Minn. 

Mrs.  Allen Cloquet,  Minn. 

Mr.  W.  L,  Avery Grand  Rapids,  Mich. 

Miss  Julia  D.  Anderson Grand  Rapids,  Mich. 

Mr.  James  W.  Arrott Pittsburgh,  Pa. 

Miss  Jane  Arrott  Pittsburgh,  Pa. 

Mr.  W.  Vernon  Booth Chicago,  III, 

Mrs.  Booth Chicago,  111. 

Mrs.  Matthew  Baird Merion,  Pa. 

The  Misses  Baird Merion,  Pa. 

Mr.  Sumner  A.  Brooks North  Cambridge,  Mass. 

Mr.  E.  C.  Benedict New  York 

The  Misses  Benedict  (and  maid) New  York 

Mr.  G.  Genge  Browning Devon,  Pa. 

Mrs.  Browning Devon,  Pa. 

Mr.  Daniel  W.  Burrows Chicago,  111. 

Mr.  Charles  J.  Bulkeley New  York 

Mrs.  Bulkeley New  York 

Mrs.  Guy  C .  Bayley Poughkeepsie 

Mr.  James  Baird Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Mrs.  Baird Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Miss  C.  H.  Baird  (and  maid) Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Mr.  W.  Mercer  Baird Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Mr.  Charles  T.  Baird Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Mrs.  John  R.  Bartlett Providence,  R.  1. 


112  A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 

Mr.  Louis  J.  Bauer Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Mr.  Frank  H.  Baker Chicago,  111. 

Mrs.  Baker Chicago,  111. 

Mr.  X.  L.  Barnes Chicago,  111. 

Miss  Laura  Balch Youngstown,  O. 

Mr.  Hervy  Bates,  Jr Indianapolis,  Ind. 

Mrs.  Bates Indianapolis,  Ind. 

Mr.  Horace  C.  Brewster Rochester,  N.  Y. 

Mrs.  Brewster Rochester,  N.  Y. 

Miss  Marie  Brewster Rochester,  N.  Y. 

Mr.  Stephen  E.  Brooks Cleveland,  O. 

Mrs.  Brooks Cleveland,  O. 

Mr.  O.  W.  Buckingham New  York 

Mrs.  Buckingham New  York 

Miss  Myra  Boyd Pittsburgh,  Pa. 

Miss  Kate  Batcheller Columbus,  O. 

Mr.  John  W.  Blodgett. Grand  Rapids,  Mich. 

Mr.  J.  Percy  Brinton Westchester,  Pa. 

Mr.  A.  W.  Butterworth Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Mrs.  Butterworth Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Mr.  A.  K.  Bolan New  York 

Mr.  E.  G.  Beach Chicago,  111. 

Mr.  J.  L.  Brewster  Boston,  Mass. 

Mrs.  Brewster Boston,  Mass. 

Geo.  BuUen,  wife  and  son Chicago,  111. 

Mr.  N.  Curtis Boston,  Mass. 

Mr.  Eugene  T.  Curtis Rochester,  N.  Y. 

Mrs.  Curtis Rochester,  N.  Y. 

Master  Joseph  Curtis Rochester,  N.  Y. 

Mr.  M.  A.  Chapin Chicago,  111. 

Miss  Alice  Chapin Chicago,  111. 


A    CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  II3 

Mr.  Greenleaf  Clark St.  Paul,  Minn. 

Mr.  Samuel  H.  Cramp Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Mrs.  Cramp Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Mr.  R.  P.  Clapp  New  York 

Miss  Clapp Grand  Rapids,  Mich. 

Mr.  George  H.  Cox Cambridge,  Mass. 

Mrs.  Cox Cambridge,  Mass. 

Mr.  Charles  Dissel Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Mrs.  Dissel Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Mr.  Charles  H.  Davis Worcester,  Mass. 

Mrs.  Davis Worcester,  Mass. 

Mr.  H.  A.  Duhring Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Mrs.  Julia  A.  Denton Grand  Rapids,  Mich. 

Mr.  Richard  S.  Dana New  York 

Miss  Elizabeth  M.  Davol New  York 

Mr.  Melville  C.  Day New  York 

Mr.  Paul  Dana New  York 

Mrs.  Dana New  York 

Mr.  Henry  Eder Chicago,  111. 

Mr.  Charles  W.  Eaton Grand  Rapids,  Mich. 

Miss  Zilla  Eaton Grand  Rapids,  Mich. 

Mr.  W.  D.  Eaton Boston,  Mass. 

Mi's.  Eaton Boston,  Mass. 

Mr.  A.  R.  Flower New  York 

Mrs.  Flower New  York 

Mr.  G.  T.  Ford Youngstown,  O. 

Mrs.  Ford Youngstown,  O. 

Mr.  Tod  Ford Youngstown,  O. 

Master  Tod  Ford Youngstown,  O. 

Master  Freeman  Ford Youngstown,  O. 

Mr.  George  S.  Fox Philadelphia,  Pa. 


114  A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 

Mrs.  Fox Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Miss  F.  J.  Fowler New  York. 

Mr.  Alden  Freeman East  Orange,  N.  J. 

Mr,  George  C.  Greene Buffalo,  N.  Y. 

Mrs.  Greene Buffalo,  N.  Y. 

Mr.  H.  Gowing Boston,  Mass. 

Mrs.  Gowing Boston,  Mass. 

Miss  Julia  Garlick Youngstown,  O. 

Mr.  W.  B.  Gamble Detroit,  Mich. 

Mrs.  Grundy Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Miss  Grundy Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Mrs.  R.  T.  Gumpert Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Mr.  Andrew  Low  Green Phttadelphia,  Pa. 

Mr.  Al.  Hayman New  York. 

Mrs.  Hayman New  York . 

Miss  Margaret  S.  Hubbard Middletown,  Conn. 

Mr.  D.  H.  Hersey St.  Paul,  Minn. 

Mrs.  Hersey St.  Paul,  Minn. 

Mr.  A.  G.  Hodenpyl Grand  Rapids,  Mich. 

Mrs.  Hodenpyl Grand  Rapids,  Mich. 

Miss  Hughes Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Mrs.  N.  P.  Hill Denver,  Col. 

Mr.  E.  Burton  Holmes Chicago,  111, 

Mr.  D.  G.  Hamilton Chicago,  111. 

Mrs.  Hamilton Chicago,  111. 

Miss  Adelaide  Hamilton Chicago,  III. 

Mr.  F.  Thornton  Hunt New  Haven,  Conn. 

Mrs.  H.  D.  Harper Chicago,  111. 

Mr.  H.  J.  Heinz Pittsburgh,  Pa. 

Mr.  Clarence  N.  Heinz Pittsburgh,  Pa. 

Miss  Irene  Heinz Pittsburgh,  Pa. 


A    CRUISE   ON   THK    MEDITERKANKAN.  I15 

Mr.  W.  M.  Hoyt Chicago,  111. 

Mrs.  Hoyt Chicago,  111. 

Mr.  Phelps  B.  Hoyt Chicago,  111. 

Mrs.  E.  C.  Idler Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Mr.  George  Ingram Brooklyn,  N.  Y. 

Mr.  John  Inglis Chicago,  111. 

Miss  Helen  S.  Jones Chicago,  III. 

Miss  K.  R.  Jones Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Mr.  G.  S.  Kimbal Boston,  Mass. 

Mrs.  Kimbal Boston,  Mass. 

Miss  Emma  C.  Kellogg Chicago,  111. 

Mr.  Josiah  L.  Lombard Chicago,  111. 

Mrs.  Lombard Chicago,  III. 

Hon.  Homer  N.  Lockwood New  York 

Mr.  L.  Lamb Clinton,  la. 

Mrs.  Lamb Clinton,  la. 

Mr.  Andrew  E.  Leicht Chicago,  111. 

Mrs.  Leicht Chicago,  111. 

Miss  Stella  Leicht Chicago,  111. 

Mr.  William  K.  Leicht New  York 

Miss  Frances  E.  Lake New  York 

Miss  H.  Josephine  Landon Chicago,  III. 

Mr.  Louis  B.  Leach Wamego,  Kan. 

Mrs.  Leach Wamego,  Kan. 

Mr.  Julius  Loeser Chicago,  111. 

Mrs.  Isaac  P.  Martin  (and  maid) New  York 

Mr.  Stephen  W.  Marston Boston,  Mass. 

Mr.  Samuel  P.  McDivitt Chicago,  111. 

Miss  Henrietta  H,  McCormick Chicago,  111. 

Mrs.  C.  L.  Mitchell  (and  maid) New  Haven,  Conn. 

Mr.  E.  A.  Mitchell New  Haven,  Conn. 


Il6  A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 

Mr.  A.  W.  F.  Manifold Philadelphia,  Pa 

Mr.  A.  L.  Murdock Boston,  Mass 

Mr.  George  Meyer Chicago,  II 

Mrs.  Meyer Chicago,  II 

Miss  Jenny  Meyer. Chicago,  II 

Master  George  Meyer Chicago,  II 

Miss  A.  Meyer Chicago,  II 

Mr.  W.  C.  McMillan Buffalo,  N.  Y 

Mrs.  McMillan Buffalo.  N.  Y 

Mr.  Frank  Nalle Richmond,  Va 

Dr.  Katharine  Northrop Philadelphia,  Pa 

Miss  Okie Devon,  Pa 

Dr.  E.  H.  Peaslee New  York 

Mrs.  Peaslee New  York 

Mr.  W.  E.  Phillips Chicago,  111. 

Mrs.  R.  A.  Paxton Hornellsville,  N.  Y. 

Roswell  Park,  M.  D Buffalo,  N.  Y. 

Mr.  Edmund  J.  Phelps Minneapolis,  Minn. 

Mrs.  Phelps Minneapolis,  Minn. 

Miss  Ruth  S.  Phelps Minneapolis,  Minn. 

Master  Richardson  E.  Phelps Minneapolis,  Minn. 

Mr.  J.  P.  Pomeroy Boston,  Mass. 

Mr.  J.  W.  Paul  (and  man  servant) Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Mrs.  Paul Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Master  Paul Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Miss  Paul Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Mrs.  W.  W.  Paul Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Bishop  Perry Davenport,  la. 

Mrs.  Perry Davenport,  la. 

Miss  Perry Davenport,  la. 

Mr.  Bronson  C.  Rumsev Buffalo,  N.  Y. 


A    CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  II7 

Mr.  Thomas  Rutter New  York 

Mrs.  Rutter New  York 

Mr.  R.  K.  Root Buffalo,  N.  Y. 

Mrs.  Root Buffalo,  N.  Y. 

Miss  Elisa  S.  Rodgers Columbus,  O. 

Mr.  Jesse  Rosenthal  New  York 

Mrs.  Rosenthal New  York 

Mr.  L.  H.  Redner Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Miss  Lucy  Hubbard  Russell Middletown,  Conn. 

Dr.  A.  Sydney  Roberts Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Mrs.  Ruth  C.  Richardson Minneapolis,  Minn. 

Mr.  R.  Lee  Robinson Louisville,  Ky. 

Mrs.  Robinson Louisville,  Ky. 

Mr.  David  T.  Roberts New  Haven,  Conn. 

Mr.  James  W.  Scott Chicago,  111. 

Mrs.  Scott Chicago,  111. 

Mr.  Thos.  H.  Shevlin Minneapolis,  Minn. 

Mrs.  Shevlin Minneapolis,  Minn. 

Mr.  J.  S.  Sanborn Boston,  Mass. 

Miss  H.  J.  Sanborn Boston,  Mass. 

Mr.  A.  H.  Sands New  York 

Miss  Helen  E.  Snow Chicago,  111. 

Mr.  T.  Guilford  Smith Buffalo,  N.  Y. 

Mrs.  Smith Buffalo,  N.  Y. 

Mr.  Charles  E.  Strong New  York 

Mrs.  Austin  Sands Newport,  R.  I. 

Miss  H.  Schankland Newport,  R.  I. 

Mr.  James  Streat New  York 

Miss  B.  Streat New  York 

Mr.  Adolph  A.  Strohn Brooklyn,  N.  Y. 

Mr.  L.  M.  Smith St.  Joseph,  Mo. 


Il8  A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 

Mr.  Edward  G.  Stoiber Silverton,  Col. 

Mrs.  Stoiber Silverton,  Col. 

Mr.  Charles  H.  Smith Chicago,  111. 

Mr.  C.  B.  Smith Chicago,  111. 

Mr.  E.  M.  Steck Chicago,  111. 

Mr.  Julian  C.  Smyth Roxbury,  Mass. 

Mrs.  Smyth  Roxbury,  Mass. 

Mr.  John  B.  Simpson Binghamton,  N.  Y. 

Mr.  L.  Schlather '. Cleveland,  O. 

Miss  Emilie  Schlather Cleveland,  O. 

Judge  Lambert  Tree Chicago,  111. 

Mrs.  Tree  Chicago,  111. 

Miss  Nellie  F.  Tree  (and  maid) Richmond,  Va. 

Mr.  Herbert  L.  Taft Boston,  Mass. 

Mr.  James  C.  Truman Binghamton,  N.  Y. 

Mr.  F.  D.  Tappen New  York 

Mr.  Frederick  Diodati  Thompson New  York 

Mr.  Charles  S.  Tainter Washington,  D.  C. 

Mrs.  Tainter Washington,  D.  C. 

Miss  A.  Tebo New  York 

Mr.  Guido  Testa New  York 

Mr.  F.  S.  Winston Chicago,  111. 

Mrs.  Winston Chicago,  111. 

Mr.  Raymond  S.  Wilder North  Cambridge,  Mass. 

Mr.  H.  B.  Wilson New  York 

Mrs.  Wilson New  York 

Mr.  J.  S.  Wells Binghamton,  N,  Y. 

Mr.  J.  Stewart  Wells Binghamton,  N.  Y. 

Mrs.  M.  C.  Windsor Hornellsville,  N.  Y. 

Mr.  Percy  G.  Williams Brooklyn,  N.  Y. 

Mrs.  Williams Brooklyn,  N.  Y. 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  II9 

Mr.  George  P.  Wanty Grand  Rapids,  Mich. 

Mr.  J.  O.  West New  York 

Mrs.  West New  York 

Mr.  George  H.  Webster Chicago,  I 

Mrs.  Webster Chicago,  I 

Mr.  Herman  Webster Chicago,  I 

Miss  May  Webster Chicago,  I 

Miss  Kate  G.  Webster Chicago,  I 

Miss  A.  P.  Williams Chicago,  I 

Miss  C.  B.  Williams Chicago,  I 

Mr.  Simon  B.  Williams Chicago,  I 

Mr.  Irving  W.  Wheeler Boston,  Mass 

Mrs.  H.  A.  Washburne New  York 

Bishop  Walker Fargo,  N.  D 

Mr.  E.  S.  Wilson Ironton,  O 

Mrs.  A.  Whartenby   Philadelphia,  Pa 

Miss  Whartenby Philadelphia,  Pa 

Mr.  W.  P.  Woodward New  York 

Mrs.  Woodward New  York 


PERSONAL   MENTION. 


Of  X.\iQ  perso?t?icl  of  our  ship  companions  as  shown 
by  the  passenger  list,  we  would  mention,  in  a  brief  way, 
that  the  general  make-up  was  that  of  a  happy  and 
contented  family.  Being  together,  as  we  were,  for 
about  two  months,  we  became  quite  well  acquainted, 
and  from  such  acquaintance  were  of  the  opinion  that 
it  was  very  fortunate  so  many  nice  and  agreeable 
people  should  have  been  brought  together  for  this  trip. 
Possibly,  in  traveling,  we  only  see  the  best  side  of 
human  nature,  and  it  has  been  our  experience  that  to 
get  well  acquainted  with  our  neighbors  at  home  is  to 
meet  them  while  traveling  abroad. 

Great  credit  is  due  to  the  ladies  of  our  party,  for 
their  quiet  and  uncomplaining  demeanor,  while  under- 
going some  of  the  hardships  of  the  trip.  Those  who 
at  home  have  all  the  comforts  and  luxuries  of  life  and 
living,  seemed  just  as  natural  and  contented  while 
walking  through  the  streets  or  riding  in  rickety  old 
carryalls,  as  they  would  have  been  at  home  with  their 
handsome  equipages.  Is  not  the  best  and  truest 
quality  of  woman  found  in  adversity? 

As  for  the  men  of  our  party,  they  were  disposed  to 
make  the  best  of  everything,  and,  as  a  rule,  had  a  very 
good  time.     The  smoking  room  on  ship  was  a  great 


122  A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 

resort  for  whiling  away  time.  The  card  tables  were 
well  patronized,  and  poker  chips  in  good  demand. 
The  florid,  pleasant-faced  gentleman  from  New  York, 
who  spent  hours  at  the  table,  seemed  to  be  in  luck,  and 
while  others  were  calling  for  more  chips,  he  would 
reach  down  into  his  pocket,  where  it  ever  seems  that 
there  Armour  (are  more.)  A  Booth,  that  makes  a  good 
stand,  may  well  be  proud  of  a  good  son  for  successor. 

The  genial  Mr.  Benedict,  of  New  York  City,  told  a 
good  joke  on  himself.  In  going  from  Genoa  to  Monte 
Carlo,  while  passing  through  the  custom  house  on  the 
frontier,  he  had  his  pocket  picked,  in  which  was  a 
small  sum  of  money  and  a  letter  of  introduction  from 
President  Grover  Cleveland.  As  for  the  loss  of  the 
money,  he  did  not  care  so  much,  but  to  lose  the  letter 
was  a  great  disappointment.  Thinking,  possibly,  it 
might  be  put  to  bad  use,  he  wrote  to  the  president  of 
the  loss,  expressing  regrets,  and  hoping  no  bad  results 
would  come  of  his  misfortune.  In  due  time  he  re- 
ceived a  reply  from  the  president,  who  stated,  "  he  was 
not  surprised,  and  that  Mr.  Benedict  was  not  the  first 
man  who  had  lost  his  character  while  traveling  abroad." 

The  menu  on  ship  was  excellent,  just  as  it  should 
have  been;  we  had  a  good  Chicago  Baker  on  board. 

In  my  donkey  ride  to  Memphis,  I  thought  I  would 
like  to  ride  beside  the  agreeable  lady  from  Indiana, 
who  was  an  excellent  rider,  and  led  the  crowd.     I  did 


A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN.  I23 

my  best  to  overtake  her,  but  I  could  not,  and  like  the 
Irishman,  I  said  to  myself,  she  ''Bates''  all. 

We  had  very  little  sickness  on  board;  several  had 
hard  colds,  but  so  far  as  I  know  there  were  only  two 
'*  Cramps,''  and  yet  they  were  not  of  a  dangerous 
character.  ''  Duhring"  all  the  trip  the  gentleman  from 
Philadelphia  was  disposed  to  take  in  everything  and  en- 
joy it.  Our  friend  from  the  Quaker  City  who  suffered 
so  much  from  seasickness,  would  not  be  consoled. 
By  "  George!"  he  would  stay  in  his  bunk  day  after  day 
like  a  ''Fox"  in  his  hole,  but  on  land  he  was  not  the 
same,  and  at  that  little  evening  party  made  up  in  Cairo 
we  discovered  he  was  as  funny  as  "  Foxey'' 

We  did  not  become  intimately  acquainted  with  the 
lumberman  from  Minnesota,  but  from  "  Hersey"  (hear 
say)  we  know  him  to  be  a  very  agreeable  gentleman. 
We  all  have  great  appreciation  and  admiration  for 
lovely  homes.  A  representative  of  one  of  the  best 
"Holmes  "  in  Chicago  was  of  our  party. 

I  must  mention  the  jovial  Mr.  Hamilton  who,  with 
his  charming  wife  and  lovely  daughter,  chartered  a 
private  car  from  Jaffa  to  Jerusalem,  in  which  we  were 
invited  to  ride,  and  accepted.  While  he  was  not  given 
the  name  of  ''Alexander"  he  bears  his  honors  well. 

Of  our  passengers  we  had  quite  a  number  of  Ger- 
mans, but  only  one  " I/iglis"  (English  you  know).  As 
representatives  of  the  forest  we  had  the  "Lombard-"y 


124  A   CRUISE   ON   THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 

(very  popular).  The  graceful  and  quiet  "  Beach  "  was 
much  admired.  As  I  sat  in  the  dining  saloon  morn, 
noon  and  night,  at  the  table  at  the  bow  of  the  ship  I 
could  see  but  to  admire  the  shining  and  attractive 
'' Leichts"  (lights)  that  were  reflected  from  the  table. 
The  mart  in  which  we  did  the  most  shopping  was 
Constantinople.  The  '' Mart-in"  in  which  we  found 
the  most  pleasure  was  one  of  us. 

Great  ''Scott!''  but  was  not  this  trip  '' Herald''-&d 
at  home  and  abroad!  He  of  our  number  who  was  best 
"  Post"-&d  was  a  good  representative  of  Chicago's 
greatness  and  best  social  element. 

Speaking  of  trees,  the  beautiful  magnolia  was  repre- 
sented from  Virginia,  the  sturdy  oak  and  old  hickory 
from  Chicago;  these  were  my  impressions  '' Judge" -m^ 
from  what  I  have  seen  and  know  of  "  Trees." 

No  wonder  that  our  gifted  lawyer  felt  able  to  make 
the  trip.  A  man  who  is  successful  and  "  Wins-to?i  s'  of 
the  good  things  of  this  world  can  gratify  his  tastes 
as  well  as  his  ambition. 


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